Ign Switch doesn't turn all the way, help
 

I need some advice on ignition switches. The other day, I turned the key, it turned to the first stop fine, the dash lights lit just like they should, but it would turn no further. So I turned it back and took the key out to try again. Oh oh, the dash lights are still lit. What the...? I tried working the switch for another hour before bump starting the car. Of course then I could only stop the engine by stalling it. I heard that disconnecting the battery would tell me if the electrical portion of the switch is faulty. Still won't turn.
Has anyone had this occur before? Does it sound like it's the mechanical part of the switch and not the electrical? I heard the new tumbler part is $300+. What's the best option?
Thanks in advance for everyone's expertise.

It could be either part. The best way to diagnose it is to separate the two and try the key and also turn the pivoting part of the elec side manually (with the wires disconnected) If it's the key/tumbler part it may be repairable, don't rush to buy a new one.

Could it have something to do with the steering lock? I dont know what kinda car you have but it could be that mechanism locking up.

Try a shot of Triflow Lube to see if you can clean up the mechanism and get it re-lubed. Mine was pretty flaky until I tried this. BTW, use of WD (Water Displacer) 40 is not recommenened as it has minimal lubricating properties and dries to leave a gunky mess to bind up the lock.

Matthew, the steering lock may prevent turning to start but not back. Typically it's either wear/lack of lube in the tumbler assembly or broken bits in the elec portion.

Oh, I forgot to say that my car is a '79 911sc. As far as the wheel lock, it does disengage when I turn the key to the first stop.
Harry (or anyone), is Triflow a graphite based lube. I was thinking of trying some graphite. I'm not looking forward to drilling out those breakaway bolts. Thanks for all your help.

No graphite. It is teflon based.

Info here: http://www.tri-flowindustrial.com/index.html/screen/industrial_lubricant/session_id/542c055ca2fbe667d15f8fafa15c6b05

Anh911, my mistake I need to read better. Thought he was talking about the other way around.

It's been a long time since I did this but I believe that you can remove the elec portion without removing the entire assembly. There are 2 screws that hold it into the back of the assembly. You have to crawl under the dash but it's worth it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108960084.jpg

Yes, you can remove the electrical portion without the mechanical portion. It is hard and you need to have a short stubby screw driver that can be removed from the handle (revesible ones do this). Then use it with a small racheting wrench to remove the screw.

Did I say that you have to push the seat all the way back, lie on your neck with your legs in the most contorted position, work by feel, and constantly swearing profanity. It is best to not have your kids around lest you become a bad example for them.

ah yes, i think the memory of the pain must have blocked it out... ;)

I'll try the Triflow first THEN I'll see if it's possible to work upside down..in the dark...through a mass of cables and wires...egad. I'll let you know.