First Engine Drop
 

I planned the engine drop to rebuild but, I kept putting it off. The clutch fork broke making the drop a must. I dropped the engine in a few hours on Wednesday evening. This morning I spent 2 hours taking off the Injection system, fan, shroud, and tin. I plan to put the engine on a stand tomorrow evening and begin the disassembly of the long block. There was a small tap coming from the area of #1, I sure hope there is something obvious there. A photo of the long block after todays work.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108944575.jpg

Nice! The engine is looking bare.
Is your eninge on an ATV jack?

I did use an atv jack to remove the engine. Dropped it solo and it provided the stability needed.

Did you drop the engine and trans together?

Dropped the engine only. I read so many posts and they seem to be split right down the middle which method is easier. I will say it was actually easier than anticipated. Had I not spent an hour trying to remove the large clutch lever only to find out that it doesnt have to go away I would have been on the ground in a few hours. We will see when I begin the reinstall I may have to back up and punt.

Cool. Good job! You inspired me, as I will be dropping my motor in the near future.

Engine is now on the stand. Exhaust removal tonight I hope.

Dont forget to update the pics for us Kevin! Where'd the clultch fork break? did it give any warning? Anyone know if this is common?

Harold, This thread has a picture and brief writeup of the clutch failure.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/205158-broken-clutch.html
I do have more photos. I will keep you posted on discoveries.

Kevin

Hi Harold,
I am thinking about using an ATV jack for an engine drop two weeks from now. Did you have to modify the jack in anyway to keep the engine stable?. Thanks for your help. Andy

you can search my name for a pic of a support plate that will fit a 3.2L engine - modify it accordingly. Some have used plywood & you may not _need_ anything - OTOH, the powertrain weighs abotu 1/4 ton....

Hey Andy,
It looks like you might have misread the thread.. Kevin dropped the engine.. I was just asking about progress reports.. I'm guessing from the pics that he just put a 1/2 inch sheet of plywood across it for the drop.

And again kev. good luck!

Yes Andy, I actually used a 3/4" piece of plywood to drop the engine. It was very stable and presented no problems. I removed 11 exhaust bolts last night. Left bank was not bad although the stud on #3 broke at the flange. The right bank required everything that John Walker and others have mentioned here. One nut and one barrel nut came off with heat. One barrel nut backed the stud out, two regular nuts were cut off with the Dremel after heat and PB failed to loosen them. The barrel nut on #4 was stripped prior to me starting or maybe just rusted but the lands were certainly not enough to get a bite with the allen. All were throughly drenched in PB blaster nmerous times prior to and I used oxygen/acytelene to heat which worked on some. Patience and the willingness to try anything seems to be the answer. My dremel bits were exhausted but I expect to get the last off in short order tonight. All of the threads are usable on the ones that are removed.

Awesome! Who ever does the heads can fix exhaust studs that are stuck.... Since youre doing a rebuild anyway there's not much to worry about since it's all going to be brand new. When it's coming apart on the stand more pics and updates will be in order!

More pix please.

Did you use the special tool to hold th eengine on the stand, or the universal stand that comes on stand?

I would love to be updated on this as well. I just put my engine back into my car and noticed my Flywheel seal leaking. I am participating in a DE in March and do not have time before then to drop it again. I am going to change out the clutch when I do it next time and would like to do it as you are to save time. Thanks - Tim

Hope to have more pix today. I did use the special stand adapter with the 1000 lb. stand from Harbor freight. It was on sale for 39.99 and for my limited use that is all I should need. I did get the final exhaust nut off last night. I am now waiting for the cam nut tools. I know I should have ordered them before but I didn't so, I wait. Of course there is still tons to do away but we all want to take the engine apart and clean later. Disassembly is the fun part. I removed the air injection last night this went extremely easy. Not sure of the metal combination but there was not a problem for those who are considering removing and plugging these ports.
Tim, I can only speak about removing the engine obviously but it was easy for me to drop engine only working alone. The opinions are pretty equal on which is easier and I may find that the reinstall is tough with the tranny still in the car but that is a ways away.
The photo attached shows the area around #3 intake. It appears a critter made this his home at some point in time. Not much but when you look down into the fins it is apparent how much airflow was lost on this cylinder.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109247884.jpg

any updates, kev.?

OK the importance of the right tool for the job.Nothing broken but... I am replacing the CV Joints/Axles while I'm in there. Started removing the CV bolts with an allen wrench which worked fine on the first 6 bolts I attempted. The 7th felt stripped so I attempted with 6 point star drive which still didnt work. I then found the 12 point star drive. THe balance of the bolts came out with no problem whatsoever. The 12 point fits like, well, like it is the right tool for the job. I also spent some time beginning the engine compartment cleanup. The delay in engine disassemly was because I waited to order Cam Nut tools until I saw the nut and shaft end. was 99% sure it would be as expected and it was but I didnt want to order the wrong tool. Again The right tool for the job. I was scared to death about these nuts being stubborn. They came off completely without incident. I am now down to the engine short block with P & C still in place. I will remove them tomorrow. there is cross hatching still visable on the cylinder walls after 170,000 miles. It appears the exhaust valves on #1 & #2 may have contacted the pistons at some point. The is a mark in the top of These pistons. Don't think the piston is damaged but this may help explain the tick that this engine had. Just guessing of course, expect to find something funny with the valves.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109735217.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109735256.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109735282.jpg