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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Manchester, VT
Posts: 404
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Suspension rebuild 101
I am about to start a suspension rebuild on my 73T coupe. I have been collecting parts and I think I have just about all I need. I will be installing front and rear torsion bars (21&26), front and rear Elephant bronze bushings, front and rear Bilsteins (HD fronts, Sport rears), and sway-a-way adjustable rear spring plates. I have the foam seals for the front bars and the rubber seals for the rear covers. What I would like to know is: 1) are there any other parts I will need? and 2) is there anything else that I should do "while I'm in there"?
The car is used for back road tooling around and rides on 16x6 and 16x7's. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Joe Last edited by Chilling in VT; 02-24-2005 at 04:40 PM.. |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,533
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I'd suggest a good corner balancing & alignment when you're done. Also, you might consider turbo tie rods if you don't have them already...
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"Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: West of Seattle
Posts: 4,718
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Consider some kind of treatment for the road-exposed bits -- powdercoating, zinc-plating, and POR-15 seem to be popular options. Rust is considered a good option for lightweight, and it seems to be getting more popular with time. If you're checking tie-rods, you should also take a look at wheel bearings, brake rotors and calipers, and ball joints. If you don't know when your rubber brake lines were last replaced, it could be time. Check the calipers for leaking. Oh, and the parking brake is an easy thing to get at, if you have everything torn down, anyway.
That's all I can think of, for now. Dan
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Oregun
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the top mounts for the struts - that rubber gets old too....
look in the Perf. Prod. catalog and get their diagram that shows all the rubber bushings F&R and make sure you have new everything. what about replacing the rubber for the sway bars?
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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I'm no suspension expert, but 21/26 with Sport shocks on the 21's and HD's on the 26's is unusual. I wonder if someone could comment on the handling of this combination. Usually, Sports are installed on the rear, and 21/28 torsion bars. so, comparatively speaking, your front will be stiff and your rear will be softer. There might be some understeer.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Manchester, VT
Posts: 404
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Thanks. I did plan on bead blasting the front a-arms and Wurth rustguarding them. I also planned for the corner balance and alignment. I never gave a thought to the sway bar bushings or the shock top mounts. My list grows. Anything else?
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Manchester, VT
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Quote:
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,761
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Did you also get Elephants self aligning mounts? If you did, you will need longer 12mm bolts in the front. For me, there weren't enough threads catching in the mounting points.
I broke off a spring plate bushing holder bolt. I would get new bolts everywhere now. |
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Longtime Member
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ball joints for the front? while yer in there,,, ya know.
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Manchester, VT
Posts: 404
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Quote:
I have been on the fence about the self aligning mounts. What are your impressions? Do you remember the pitch and length of the bolts? Thanks. Joe |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: louisiana
Posts: 1,478
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those washer stacks are close to 6mm I used 1.5 X 45 bolts
mine are 10mm though, maybe different on an older car? If you even have a hint of binding I'd get the mounts and washer sets. It sucks doing the front end twice |
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