Bare metal cleaing alternative?

Argeo · 02-25-2005, 09:18 AM

I bought this stuff to clean my metal before I put the primer on my car (car is getting repainted, totally stripped). Anyways, I bought this stuff that suppose to clean the metal really well. It turns the metal a shade of blue when clean. Well, the stuff was like $22 bucks for like a quart. Probably enough to do a third of the car. It just smells like rubbing alcohol which if I recall correctly is the main ingrediant. Anyone have any other ideas for cleaning the metal before putting down primer that would be a much cheaper alternative?

Thanks,

David

buster73 · buster73's Garage

I would use the cleaner recommended by your paint system supplier. This way you can avoid any incompatibilities and unpleasant surprises down the road. Even if it looks expensive at first, it is cheap insurance.

Tim Hancock · 02-25-2005, 09:45 AM

Dupont and others make metal prep/conditioners for this. The basic idea is to clean well with a degreasing type cleaner, then apply the conditioner which etches and or leaves a phosphate type coating. Some prefer to skip the conditioner and just use a self etching primer such as VariPrime, this works fine. I prefer to clean, etch, epoxy prime, apply any filler needed, prime with a sanding primer, sand, topcoat. My procedure is not cheap and not quick but I trust it on things that I want to last a long time (steel and aluminum aircraft structures).

Like Guenter said above.

Check with the dealer you will be buying the paint from, they should have product data sheets for the paint you will be using. These sheets will typically spell out the proper materials and procedures from bare metal prep to buffing out the final finish.

(Paint and supplies are very expensive nowadays supposedly due to the enviro wacko laws. Be prepared for a shock!)

randywebb · 02-25-2005, 09:54 AM

What wacko about breathing??

Tim Hancock · 02-25-2005, 10:23 AM

Nothing wacko about breathing, I use a fresh air system when I paint with the nasty stuff (isocyanates "super glue" is not what you want in your lungs). I just do not think that auto paint fumes are going to result in the total breakdown of our enviroment and the end of the world as we know it. The last 3/4 gallon of Yellow (not red, yellow) Imron cost me about $300. The paint dealer told me that was because one of the ingredients for that particular shade was very expensive because of enviromental laws outlawing some of the previously used components. At what point will it end? I hope I didn't offend you Randy it is just my opinion.

Argeo · 02-25-2005, 10:27 AM

I will print. For some reason my short term memory has shrunk since I started this job.

I will be using Veriprime and then a filler primer over that. In total $320-.

I guess I'll be buying someother cleaner. The stuff I bought was a dupont product.

Wrecked944 · 02-25-2005, 10:33 AM

You're ready for primer already??? WOW!! I'm seriously impressed. Any chance you can post pics of the current state of the project for inspiration? All I've done this winter is replace the heater blower relay in my 944. And you've stripped your car and you're ready for paint???? Dayyam!!

randywebb · 02-25-2005, 10:36 AM

No offense - but auto paint fumes are a huge contributor to air toxics as well as some other things... there is technical literature on this, or you can start with EPA or EDF/NRDC site searches.

2nd, consider that companies often use the regulatory environment as a 'cover' to raise profits - it's possible here too.

3rd, If the whole country or world had the juman density of Wyomng (1 per 4 sq. miles) we would need a lot less pollution control or regulation in general. But it isn't. SoCal in particular is a very high pollution env. because of the 1. the heat and 2. the geography (basin) - leaving aside all the people packed into it.

Ohio has its own problems (altho some of them blow over onto NYC and the E. coast...).

I love cars but I'll pick a safe clean environment any day of the week. I can get some of my car jollies on tele skis or a bicycle too...

Tim Hancock · 02-25-2005, 10:37 AM

Seeing that you are using Variprime, maybe just some Prep-Sol (a gallon will last forever).

john70t · 02-25-2005, 05:02 PM

Some people have opened the garage door after painting to find both their driveway and their neighbors car/house a different shade. Encase the "booth" in plastic, seal all edges well with duct tape, put furnace filters with plenty of the special sticky spray under the door and fans in front for outlet circulation, furnace filters in front of the inlet air(upwind) and wear the right respirator.
Also drain the compressor of water and use an inline water trap to keep from doing the job twice.
Not nearly as good as a proffesional booth, but it'll keep alot of the chemicals from getting airborn(not that water is any better).

Argeo · 02-28-2005, 03:56 AM

Thanks guys for all your help.

Hey Janus,

I think you had told me before that you don't have a garage. That is kind of important for winter work.

Sorry, no digital at the moment. I have a disposable but still have about 10 pictures I need to take.

I always figured I didn't need one since when I ever do anything photo Porsche worthy, your typically there. Out of the guys I personally know, your the gang photographer/writer.

Hopefully, weather permiting I will be able to primer this weekend.

Talk to you soon, hopefully I can get another car get together this spring. I am trying.