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-   -   Want to make your own SmartCamber gauge for $100?? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/210721-want-make-your-own-smartcamber-gauge-100-a.html)

anthony 03-13-2005 07:05 AM

Want to make your own SmartCamber gauge for $100??
 
I bought the SmartCamber gauge but since buying it I've found that the digital measuring unit is available in tool stores. One could easily make this tool for $100.

Here is the module for $89 at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000225AL/


I figure that one could easily attach it to an aluminum square:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004T809/


I would cut the square down to the size of your rim (15-16-17") (buy two squares if you have more than one rim size) and then just hold it up to the lip of the rim to take the measurement.

If there was a problem leveling the digital unit to the square I guess it would be pretty easy to addd some leveling screws to the bottom of the square just like the smart camber unit has.

Chuck Moreland 03-13-2005 08:10 AM

I made one of these a year or so back. There is no need for screws because the digital module has a built in zeroing function.

I used a cheap aluminum "I" beam type level as a mount for the module. Then cut one side of the level to fit 15 inch wheels, the other side for 16 inch.

Works a charm.

89turbocabmike 03-13-2005 08:34 AM

Nice idea guys! I'm off to build a camber gauge:)

anthony 03-13-2005 08:43 AM

Any pics Chuck?

Wil Ferch 03-13-2005 11:43 AM

I built one using a brace of bubble gauges on a cut down carpenter's level ( aluminum) ..using metric threaded stand-off screws. A little trig and no problem finding the answer...

$25 total.....

I think I posted on this before...do a search...

also works like a charm...

Wil

KobaltBlau 03-13-2005 11:51 AM

This is good DIY but I'm not sure using the manufacturer's trade mark in the thread title is the nicest thing to do, maybe must "make your own camber gauge" would be better. Maybe I'm just nitpicking.

Jeroen 03-13-2005 04:57 PM

Just the protractor costs the same @ Smart Racing...

chrisp 03-13-2005 05:20 PM

I have an angle finder like the one you show. I use it with my machined wheels without center cap and just lay the angle finder against the outer wheel face to find camber.

Tim Hancock 03-14-2005 06:07 AM

Here is my DIY suspension adjusting set-up. I use an electronic level, strings and rolling supports to allow adjustments to be made without having to lower car to roll back and forth. Works great!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110812842.jpg

evill 03-14-2005 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tim Hancock
Here is my DIY suspension adjusting set-up. I use an electronic level, strings and rolling supports to allow adjustments to be made without having to lower car to roll back and forth. Works great!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1110812842.jpg

Great idea and set up Tim.

Ed

chrisp 03-14-2005 07:22 AM

Boy that looks scary. I would never get under that car.

Tim Hancock 03-14-2005 07:45 AM

Whatever Chrisp, I have a 6000lb rated scissors lift under the car, so it can't fall, but like I said whatever.

chrisp 03-14-2005 07:52 AM

Wow you're hostile.

Looks to me like the scissor is a good distance away from the chassis.

Tim Hancock 03-14-2005 08:08 AM

Sorry chrisp, I guess I have been over in OT a little too much lately! I still think your comment "Boy that looks scary. I would never get under that car." sounds a little condescending though.

Zeke 03-14-2005 08:32 AM

You can't see if there is a center rib on those dollys, but if not, the cantilever design would bear concern. I'm a carpenter, so I'll consider myself informed on the properties of wood and fasteners.

The scissor lift certainly provides the measure of safety one would want, but I would not want a failure, regardless. The moving stresses on the dollys is enough to undo the construction if it isn't braced and braced some more. Those look brand new, so the test of time will prove out any weakness.

chrisp, you may have sounded terse, but your comments were far from unfounded, IMHO. Tim, I like the idea enough to think about my own version. One thing I have trouble with is making any kind of alignment adjustment once the suspension is loaded, i.e., on the ground, you have solved that problem. I assume the dollys are specific to thier position for level, or you are fortunate to have a dead level floor.

Tim Hancock 03-14-2005 09:06 AM

Zeke, the dollies are the cheapo Harbor Freight style that I picked up cheap on sale. The 2 x 12 riser platform is bolted to the riser blocks which are bolted to the dollies. Initially I intended to build the risers out of square steel tubing, but I was in a hurry and I had the wood and needed to check/adjust alignment that weekend. I hear ya that it looks a little odd, but it is simple, it worked and I was careful. I do not have a problem someone being concerned with my safety, but I just felt the comment was a little condescending.

FWIW, I have built aircraft from plans using wood (aircraft grade Sitka Spruce) steel and aluminum. I am a special machine design mechanical engineer. I did not feel the need to calculate the strength of the short 2 x 12 platforms here, but I assure you that there were no knots and they will not break. I posted the picture to show others an alternative to greased plates on a 4 post lift by using dollies that are cheap and useful to have in the shop. Someday, I may actually weld up a set of permanent risers.

disclaimer: copy at your own risk

(man, I guess I am a little testy today!)

chrisp 03-14-2005 09:10 AM

We're good. My bad for being condescending. If you haven't looked at it from an engineering perspective yet I would. I see not only thin pieces of wood but the wood is not well supported. Add to that the fact that each corner roll independently and I could see that being an easy structure to topple.

Tim Hancock 03-14-2005 09:16 AM

Oh yeah, Zeke my floor is fairly level at the points that the dollies are resting (at least side to side). I thought about rigging a pc of clear plastic hose as a water level, then shimming with thin pcs of plywood under the tire. Instead, I used a long straight edge with a level to find common pts on each side. Someday, I may get a little more sophisticated, but for what I was doing, it worked out fine.

widebody911 03-14-2005 09:22 AM

Here's what happend to me trying to move a VW bus around on dollies. I had some homemade dollies with jackstands, which I placed under the front beam and rear torsion bar. In short, I was rolling the entire assemble and one of the dollies 'tripped up' on something on the floor; one dolly stopped moving but everything else kept going. I was pushing from the LF corner.

http://66.34.72.138/gallery/image/1743.JPG
http://66.34.72.138/gallery/image/1741.JPG
http://66.34.72.138/gallery/image/1742.JPG

Tim Hancock 03-14-2005 09:56 AM

Wow Thom, I bet you blurted out a few choice expletives when that happened! Did it hurt anything?

I dented a customers wing once while moving it while it was mounted to a rotisserie type stand on wheels. I snagged a lower corner on a garage door and the wing came off the end stand and hit the floor. I was afraid to even look at the damage. Good thing my kids were not within earshot!


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