Another bondo question

Argeo · 03-14-2005, 04:19 PM

I noticed after priming my car with veriprime and filler primer that one area is a bit low that block sanding won't eliminate. Can I bondo over the primer? I thought someone here said you could but where the location is already bondoed and primered, can more bondo be added on top of the primer to fill.

Thanks,

David

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

How low is low? There are filling primers (ie FeatherFill from Evercoat) which could make up the difference.

LakeCleElum · 03-14-2005, 04:45 PM

I've always sanded off the primer in that area, added a skim coat and redid the primer...Bob S.

Argeo · 03-14-2005, 05:06 PM

It is probably an 1/16 of an inch or less. I have three type bodnos. I assume I would use the fiberglass stuff to fill and then the the other two to finish off.

Zeke · 03-14-2005, 05:06 PM

I use the one in the middle of the page. Polyester Glazing Putty. This is the best for fine tuning a panel after priming.

Argeo · 03-14-2005, 05:10 PM

Does the glazing puddy need to primered afterwards? Thanks.

Argeo · 03-14-2005, 05:16 PM

The bondos I am using are Everglass Short strand fiberglass, Evercoat light weight and Evercoat easy Sand.

Hey Zeke, does that stuff need to be primered. Oh, saw the pictures of the car, love the look, great job.

Argeo · 03-14-2005, 05:28 PM

Read about the glazing putty. seems like the way to go.

Thanks,

David

LakeCleElum · 03-14-2005, 07:28 PM

I've used glazing putty also to late touch-up. I would still primer over it to keep a uniform color for an undercoat.....

Tim Hancock · 03-15-2005, 04:27 AM

You can apply bondo over the primer and yes you will need spot spray/sand some more primer over the bondo. If it was just a very small spot, then I might opt to use glazing putty.

RoninLB · 03-15-2005, 04:58 AM

glazing putty bubbles around here, even filling pin holes.

Argeo · 03-15-2005, 05:36 AM

Ronin, Do you mean the Northeast? Sounds like I should just use the bondo I have, is that correct?

Thanks.

RoninLB · 03-15-2005, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Argeo

Ronin, Do you mean the Northeast? Sounds like I should just use the bondo I have, is that correct?

it may have taken a year or two but many areas of the putty eventually bubbled. This happened on a few paint jobs. Now all I'll do to those little pin holes is Thin Out the bondo with acetone, toluine, or car paint lacquer thinner and use that to replace the putty.

You shouldn't have any noticable low areas after applying primer. If it won't fill with 3 or 4 coats of primer filler or very thin bondo I'd take it down and use some "all metal" filler.

Maybe it's the higher humidity levels close to the ocean that eventually causes the bubbling? Anyway paint may be water proof, but it's not vapor proof.

Argeo · 03-15-2005, 07:58 AM

Is the metal filler basically bondo with metal instead of fiberglass? I think I did see some at the place I bought my bondo. Why not just use this instead of fiberglass bondo in general? What is the weakness?

Thanks.

RoninLB · 03-15-2005, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Argeo
Is the metal filler basically bondo with metal instead of fiberglass?

Why not just use this instead of fiberglass bondo in general?

What is the weakness?

Thanks.

again this may be only my experience?

Bondo gives me a prob with becoming to stiff and this causes a prob with sun heating and winter freezing causing a delamination. It also seems to eventually become poris to water vapor/moisture.

There are two kinds of fiberglass resin. The routine polyester stiffens, cracks, and delaminates. Epoxy resin stays flexible and is great to use. Bondo uses polyester. Maybe the "all metal" does also, but it doesn't give me prob's.

I would say that my experiences with these materials wouldn't happen in a desert like Arizona or LA.

fwiw,
I'll shoot a few thin coats of paint rather than a thick coat to avoid moisture causing blushing a year later and bubbling now.