Can you teach me ab. riveting?
 

I tried to rivet some sheet metal yesterday and it didn't go very well. I had this tool that's supposed to tighten a rivet by squeezing the plier-type handles, but the rivets still had plenty of play. Not only that, after tightening (not enough) I couldn't even detach the rest of the rivet from the gun :rolleyes:

Then (of course once I was home) on the rivet container, I saw a sign stating "not to be used on manual rivet machines)...hmmm, the one I have seems very "manual" to me. Is it just a case of mismatching tools?

this is the rivet gun I was playing with:
http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/static/880/mi/670/p1272670.html

any help on tips, tricks, or procedures will be appreciated. If I was using the wrong type, then what kind of rivets should I look for? What do they look like?

thanks.

You'll have to use the proper length rivet for the metal thickness. Also, you want the rivet to just fit inside the hole. It takes my riveter <b>2-3 pumps</b> to completely compress the rivet. The "nail' center automatically snaps off when you reach max compression.

I've also found the using like metals (rivet and metal being joined) makes for better holding and longevity.

there is also a washer that you can slip over the blind end of the rivet to help it pull up tight. the head expands behind the washer.

You had used a rivet with a head that was too long.

These aren't exact terms, and there are probably several style but: basically the ball at the end is attached to the pull shaft. When it's pulled through the sleeve/"rivet" cylinder, it pushes/peels it out which creates the inner holding flange. The outer flange is already there.

After the pullshaft/ball compresses the new inner flange against the materials against the outer flange with enough force, the pullshaft is made to break in two because the ball won't squeeze through the hole, so the rivet is left squeezing the two sides together.


When figuring out which to use- use the recommended drill size for the rivet, it should be tight fitting(brittle plastics may crack under strain so the rivet can be a little loose there or use different technique). Measure the thickness of both materials with a depth guage or the jaws part of a caliper.

Great advice and info so far. The only thing I can add is that it is a good idea to hold the two pieces together close by with a clamp to ensure that when the rivet snugs up, the parts are firmly joined. You can expect some pulling together of the parts with the rivet, or the rivet and backing washer JW mentions., but use of a separate clamp is best.

There is also a temporary clamping device for as yet unriveted holes called a Cleco clamp which is inserted and removed with a plier like tool.


From eBay, where there are a bunch for sale. I'd look for used at a good price. They last a long time.http://www.countrysidewalk.com/Images/ebay/699.jpg

thanks guys, at least it appears I was trying to do it the correct way. Now it's just a question of finding smaller rivets, and the washer will probably help there too.

Yes, by all means, the backing washer effectively shortens the working length of the rivet. You have to keep moving up on the rivet snap off shaft to get it to break. Many times as you go to release the rivet pliers and get another bite, the shaft pushes inward aborting you attempt. Reach around to the back and hold the ball end as you work the tool down the shaft for another pull.

It's not a crime to use a rivet that is too long, just takes more effort. Much better than one that is too short.

You may want to purchase one of those rivet/washer assortment packs. For a relatively low price you'll get a varied selection of rivet lengths and diameters. I'd suggest an inventory of both aluminum and steel.

Here's a 1000 piece aluminum set for $9.99 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7961444894&catego ry=33654&sspagename=WDVW