Trailing arm removal tips?
 

Well I'm stuck again, this time trying to remove the trailing arm on my SC. I can turn the bolt but it appears to be spinning the entire bolt and nut. Do I need to place a wrench behind to stop the entire bolt from spinning? What size is the nut behind? Its very difficult to reach for me--maybe I need to raise the car a few inches. Thanks again.

Jon: I'm assuming you speak of the small forward end of the trailing arm. Put a 19mm (pretty sure it's 19) box end on the nut. The bolt head should be 22mm. I broke mine loose with my old beam torque wrench. It's on there pretty good. The torque tube has an indentation that you can just get a shallow socket and ratchet into on the bolt head. Also, spray it up with PB Blaster or Aero-Kroil. That bolt and nut are in a wicked spot.
Pat

Pat-yup--its the small forward end. I'll try a 19mm wrench on the back. I dont have a metric shallow socket so I'll try a standard close in size and try my luck. Im getting grease/dirt all over my damn keyboard! I love this, get stuck, post a q on Pelican, fart around for awhile and the answer pops up! Awesome!

Jon:
Get a beater laptop for the garage!

I have removed four trailing arms over the past month, and all you need is leverage. I had the luck of working under a friend's lift, but this should come loose. I found a few had used red loctite which takes a number of turns to break away. If you can't budge it, try a little persuasion with a pipe on the end.

Also we used a universal on the end of the socket for the outboard side to get more than a 1/16 of a turn on the rachet.....

Unbelievably something worked the first time for me. I used a 19mm wrench that I blindly managed to fit behind the arm and then used the standard size shallow socket (closest to 22mm) and one click at a time backed the bolt out I was so thrilled when I removed the trailing arm I held it up in the air and triumphantly screamed like the Predator after making a kill!

Hmm - I just did this and both ends (nut and bolt head) were 22mm. No wonder it was so hard to get it to clear the torsion bar housing! Damn after-market fasteners!

When you reinstall you may want to try a 22mm box wrench. Once you get the rythm you can crank the nut back on pretty quickly.

A piece of duct tape holding the nut to the wrenc helps you get it where it needs to be to start the threads.

Congrats!

You should consider yourself fortunate. You've never had the to remove the control arm on an early 911. The bolt faces the other direction. Got the picture?

Sherwood