135 or so. My average speed on a lap is 99-100 mph.

Well, the openings are bigger than the factory engine cover. But are they better designed? Again, the monkey-making-a-laptop image comes to mind. ;) But before I do any testing with them, I'll have a CHT gauge and the oil temp gauge to watch for rising temperatures.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1112319696.jpg

If you were running just headers and straight pipes or megaphones, I would suggest having them ceramic coated inside and out as that will massively cut down on the heat the exhaust can radiate.

Then if the exhaust is not causing heat issues..... duct around it and reverse that fan!

Seriously.... how much air could the fan pull through running in reverse? I am sure the air channeling tin would need to be reversed at the cylinders and some means of ensuring the air when toward the cylinders would be required. But has anyone ever attempted to reverse the air flow over the cylinders?

How about a set of reversed NACA ducts at the end of the diffuser, to suck air out?

I think the one of the problems with a reversed fan is that it would then suck all kinds of crap up from the road and Jack's occasional Off Track Excursions into the engine which besides making the engine compartment very nasty would also probably be detrimental to cooling.

reversed fan... apart from mechanical difficulties of building something like that, sucking up hot exhaust air over the cilinders to the intake doesn't sound like a very smart plan to me...

There's much more as to why "pushing" air will be easier than "pulling" air....

Not just for all the reasons mentioned, but any fluid ( as "air" is) has a certain compressability which it can tolerate as it's forced to move...but lacks "strength" ( if you will) and "pulls apart" when you try to "suck" air from above....

This isn't really what happens...but it serves to create a mental picture of what then goes on. For those of you who might be designers of industrial cooling towers or finned, air cooled heat exchangers ( ACHX's), this is similar to "induced-draft" fan configuration over the tower or ACHX.... as opposed to "forced-draft". Notice the big difference in air flow HP required to get induced flow to work...

Porsche, I believe also tested and rejected this configuration...but I don't recall all the specifics of the reason for rejection...

Wil

Any reason NACA ducts couldn't be used to help cooling flow down and out thru the diffuser? Maybe use them in the existing slots?

good points made on the coating for the headers- would help reduce almost 100 degrees in a semi closed space. But absolutely not on the reversed air flow! despite the chapparal like ideas. The factory horizontal fan sucked up close to 35 hp on the 935's so your n/a 3.6 can't support that idea either (plus the cost close to 10k for a used unit!)

Based on that speed, I will go out on a limb and predict small improvements only....

You might think about boring some big holes in the pretty rear panel...

Jack, your holes should certainly help to resolve the cooling issue, but now where are your venturi??? All that you have left are the vertical fences. The good news is that I suspect that your engine cooling will be more effective given the diffuser behind the holes. Given the limited surface area of the diffuser, I doubt that you'll get much in the way of downforce -- but who knows without testing it.

My other thought is ... Where is the air flow going to come from to flow through the diffuser? Your car has a full width air-dam at the front which will do a good job pushing air around and over the car. If you don't channel air under the car (check out the front of a 956/962), you won't have any flow through the tunnel which will make the diffuser meaningless. This is why the F1 designers always spend so much effort getting the front of the car right, because it then determines effectiveness of the entire rest of the car's aerodynamics.

On a different thought -- have you considered using "turbine" style wheels (a la the 935-78 and 956's) to pull air out via the wheels? Given the way that you have the rest of the car sealed, it might just do the trick to develop a slight vacuum under the entire car's undersurface -- which would be a significant improvement.

What a great project, this thread really grabs my imagination.

All I'd like to add is a link to a rear engined aircraft/pusher. It has some interesting carbon fiber NACA intake scoops. I don't know if something like this could be all that useful under the car though.

http://www.rguerra.com/velocity/finalStructure/finalStructure.html


A view from the rear firewall looking towards the front of the craft.
http://www.rguerra.com/velocity/fina...20radiused.jpg



Link heaven:
http://www.eesc.usp.br/biblioteca/naca_nasa

That's the rub, isn't it? For this little project to be effective, I need to reduce air pressure (and velocity) at the end of the underbody chain. To cool a 911 motor, I need to pump air into that same area where I'm trying to make the low-pressure magic happen. I think you're probably right about this current setup not hurting my engine temps (of course, that's just a guess) -- but simultaneously not providing classic diffuser effects, either.

Starting out with zero expectations for the piece, I'll be pleased if it does anything at all. At best, it's going to be giving me a small percentage of what a diffuser does on a front-engine car. At worst, I'll be a monkey trying to find the Pelican BBS on my suitcase filled with old circuit boards.

(Actually, the worst-case scenario is big, sharp pieces of aluminum flying off of the car at high speed after they come into contact with the track. :eek: )

It also adds weight where you don't want it

I do hope it works out though

That's true about the weight, although it's all low down.

To see what we're talking about, I just took the postal scale outside.

The stock 964 engine cover weighs 11 lb 0 oz

My front splitter piece (with attached front skirts) weighs 4 lb 9 oz

My side skirts weigh (combined) 5 lb 1 oz

The flat panel between my rear swaybar and the diffuser weighs 2 lb 6 oz

The rear diffuser weighs 4 lb 8 oz

So, the full aero package (less the ABS panel between the nose and the rear swaybar) is 16 lb 2 oz

My rear diffuser alone is 6 lb 8 oz lighter than the stock 964 piece.

My full aluminum aero package (front, sides, bottom and rear) is 5 lb 2 oz more than the stock 964 piece alone -- which is less than the weight of one gallon of gas.

But it is still additional weight. (Not considering the 964 cover piece at all, I'm adding 16 lb 2 oz to the car.)

We'll see which pieces can justify their weight cost.

Someday someone is going to pull the cork on car aerodynamics and do every crazy/ugly thing they can to a car. Lord only knows what it would look like, bet it would take some getting used to.

Someone already posted this strake on a car:
http://www.mulsannescorner.com/newsmarch03.html


From a previous Pelican threads.......................

Riblets are used on aircraft wings:
http://aerodyn.org/Drag/riblets.html

Shark Fins....vortex generators used on the new Mitsu:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/show...ight=shark+fins

Lex Fence on the F-18 Hornet:
http://www.nas.nasa.gov/Main/Redire.../Pubs/TechSums/

...............and some more plane stuff:
http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/planes/q0176.shtml

Dimples on a golf ball:
http://www.aerospaceweb.org/questio...ics/q0215.shtml

Don't forget the fun & easy books on fluid flow I posted...