Soon to be flared 912-6
 

Started laying out parts yesterday for the 912-6 flair job. Gonna be a shame to cut up the great sc fenders I got just for the flares. Gonna use the 3m panel adhesive to bond them on. Was wondering, should I make some sort of flange tool so the new flare will sit more flush with the old metal? That way I won't have such a big level difference and will use less filler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1112190776.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1112190788.jpg
My pretty sc fenders.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1112190805.jpg
The soon to be extended 912-6. Can you say, I need 9x17 race rubber.

the answer is yes...flange them...I have a couple pairs of flanging pliers. I think I got them from eastwood? can't remember.

the spin really got to you huh?

sjd

Prob with the flanging pliers is I need to have about a 2" flange. I do have one of those flange rollers I got from harbor freight that has about a 12" throat, thought I migh try to have a helper hold it up while we turn the handle.

The spin was actually fun, just want to go faster!

Standard flanging tools are for welding flares. I'd be interested to see how the roller works for you.

This is what I want to try,

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...4199/34104.gif

Flange the flare and mount underneath the QP. this would allow you to clamp the flanging roller in the vice and run the flare by hand. Yep, that would be a two person job to keep the flare square to the pinch rollers.

Clecos would hold it in place on the QP easily. Just make sure that underside is nice and clean for the sticky stuff...

Duuuuh, now why didn't I think of that. Great idea!

Marked the flares for trimming yesterday (between working on DTW's doors). 8" on the sides, and 9" across the top, plan on flanging 2" on the flare to go under the edge of the old fender.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1112807411.jpg

I am going to do flares to my 74 911 also. I have all the parts, even the 17"x 8,9's Fikse's to go around. I have questions though, why are you doing epoxy? Are there benefits to epoxy that are better than butt-welding?
I have issues with cutting the panels. Some people use hacksaw blades, (by hand) others use sawsalls and plasme cutters. What are you going to use?

I'm gonna try the epoxy for a few reasons:
1. I've never used it, better on my car than a customers
2. Won't have to worry about warpage issues with the welding which should....
3. possibly make less secondary work for painting later.

I'll be using my air body saw (tiny sawsall with hack saw blades), or my sawsall with a fine tooth metal cutting blade.

Another technique for cutting is to use a pnuematic cutoff tool with a 1/32" disc. Especially nice if you trace cut the new fender while it's clamped to the old. Leaves a perfect gap for butt welding.

I was hoping for a saw type of tool. The guy I bought the flares from used some type of saw. Trying to reach him is another story. I found some info on this site (something like December 2001) that a guy with a 914 did flares, butt-welding and cut using a hand saw (hacksaw blade).
His job was awesome and what I had in mind. I plan on using the bumper extensions and the torsion bar holes for locating the flares. Do you guys agree? It should be a direct replacement. (unlike fiberglass flares)

a couple of companies make air saws...

like a saws all, but little, and air powered. they make fine metal cutting bits for them too that do tight radiuses...like cutting through butter I tells ya.

sjd

I got my air body saw for cheap from Harbor freight. They want a small fortune for blades though, so i cut my own from good hacksaw blades for a fraction of the cost.

That's what I've been looking for!!!!! I am going to purchase one ASAP!!!! Thanks!!!!

Epoxy?
 

I recently butt welded SC flares on my car. The reason I did it that way was to cut down on overlapping metal (flange) that might possible trap moisture causing rust. The epoxy might just work well but I would be sure to "bed" the entire flange with epoxy, similar to the way wood boat carpenters "bed" wood to gether to keep out moisture.

The air cutoff tool (disk type) is very good to cut the radius of the flare.

I wanted to butt-weld because or the less bodywork to do and if you run your hand on the inside, it would seem factory-like. I did this car 6 years ago from front to back, so it's time for a make-over.

The flares are cut to size now, picture to follow.

Tested out the flare tool too, worked like a champ.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1113221868.jpg

Great googly moogly. Went to order the 3m panel adhesive online today, two tubes for $33 a piece, no problem. $250 for the applicator, BIG PROBLEM. Now to find out what to do to cut that price down. Ouch!

buy a high quality jig saw only there not ...no vibration and wll cut like butter...you can pull a 1/16 of at a time,,no problem,no bouce....how ever I am not to keen on the epoxy method....in my life these are good for some things (epoxys) they do not hold well above 2oo deg -(gets soft) if you weld it I know your done.