Here's the situation: I rotated the dizzy counter-clockwise idle went up....
 

To attempt to correct a "felt" slight miss, I rotated the dizzy counter-clockwise, (1969 E Bosch distributor) and:

1. The idle went up. So I adjusted the idle to around 800-900. Idled fine then.

2. After doing the above, no mattter where I turn mixture screws, ther idle stays basically the same.

3. After about a 1/2 hr. road run of up and down accelerations the oil filter feels quite hot. Normal?

4. What exactly am I doing when rotating the dizzy counterclockwise which created the higher idle?

5. Still sounds (doesn't feel like) like a very slight miss, only very slight upon initial acceleration from first, all other higher shifts no misses runs fine.

6. The engine has a deep accoustical tone to it.

7. Should I just accept the above, and be happy and just drive, or is something astray?

Thanks

Turning the distributor counter clockwise advances the timing. If you adjusted the revs back down to compensate, you will be running too much advance! please don't drive it until you get a timing light on that engine.

Well, Ive tuned many small displacement Porsche engine over the years...Ive been thinking of Ebay-ing all the jets/emulsion tubes/venturis I have on hand

Yours doesnt seem to be to big a hurdle to over come

Good luck

oh when you advance the base timing you are giving your engine more torque.. hence a higher idle..

What happens with too much advance?

Molten metal where your pistons used to be.

Detonation and broken rings. I know there is a great post on timing a 1969 911E on the list someplace but I can't find it.
You will need to come down from your secret mountain lair and borrow a timing light for this one. ;)
-Chris

you probably don't know what the engine is timed at to begin with, so get a timing light. maybe it did need more advance, which will give it better low end response, to a point, but at least time it to stock specs first, just to be safe. you don't need a meltdown after all this work.

I must have been napping...is this the ame engine that had all the rods break but still spun it's rear pulley? It now runs!?!?!?!?

As above..what is the actual timing of the engine??

OK, I'll look into a light, but I noticed with all the rotations of the dizzy that the acoustical miss seemed to still be there to a degree. At this more "advanced" change, the car starts easier, and there is no detonation at any shift.

Another thing: With the old position, more "retard" when shifiting into first (or reverse) to go, the idle would drop and sometimes stall the car. But with this advanced counter clockwise position, no more stalling at go.

Also, in searching for a light, can this be something simple, local auto parts store?

I guess it depends on what country you're in?

I think you have the .006/'69 911E dizzy with 5deg BTDC and 35deg total? and you have MFI?

buy the light that has the timing adjuster knob on it.

You can get by with this one:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 921027000

This one makes things easier:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 921023000

Tom

OK. thx for the links.

To be honest, I'm not aware of how changing the timing will help to correct a miss unless the timeing is waaayyyy far out. So now you may have compounded your problem by changing something that wasn't the problem.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/nono.gif

Your '69E has a mark on the pulley at 35 degrees so the very simplest of timing lights will work.
-Chris

Exactly my thought all along! That's why I didn't run out and buy a timing light.

The change I made did not add to "the problem", and I remember easily the adjustments made so I can go back to where both the dizzy was set and the idle was set..

You have 2 options.

-Buy a timing light and do the job right.

-Sell the car to someone with a timing light.

Below are the diagnostic steps from "check, measure, adjust", the factory MFI manual. Notice the first 5 steps have nothing to do with the fuel system. If you have carbs, the concept is the same, ignition must be properly adjusted before you check anything else.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1112892522.jpg

Thanks for posting the factory steps Todd, I copied that for my big (and it's really so big now it's falling apart) notebook.

(I don't have the factory manual)

Well..........VICTORY!!! The miss is gone, all gone at acceleration from go. I'll need to fully road test it yet though, as the weather is bad today.

I slightly moved rotatiion clockwise (toward where it originally was), and it turns out there is only one good spot ion the rotation where the miss does not exist. I did turn out the mix screw though just to be on the safe side.

I'll know more on the next oil change, as I may check the plugs, check the oil content, and most of all........

.....get rid of those cheapo thin (seem too thin to me) lower valve cover gaskets. Those gaskets have four nuts leaking. I even started wwith the torque low as Wayne's book. The oil somehow from those nuts creeped all the way down the front of the exchangers, at first I thought the oil cooler, but took the flashlight and nothing on the front exch. facings. So I can't wait to get new valve cover gaskets as they are the only leaks.

As Reagan might say "not bad for a 36 year old engine, not bad at all"................

Hang on - you're missing something here - if you haven't timed in your ignition yet properly, that's not at all acceptable. Re-read the above. Improperly set timing can rapidly destroy an engine. Invest the 25 bucks in a cheap timing light and do this right. This is not an "optional" procedure (sorta like measuring out a magnesium case is not optional, but you've refused to respond to that for months...). No half-assing allowed.

Never said a word about not getting one. I go out tomorrow and look at what timing lights are available (cheap), at the same time I get the silicone beaded lower valve cover gaskets.