Rear Wheel Bearing Wobble

[wswilburn]

I replaced both rear wheel bearings because one side had a little play. This fixed the problem bearing but afterwards, the side originally without any problem had a little play. I replaced this bearing again, using Loctite 660, under the assumption the fit to the arm was a little loose. There is still play. I am reasonably convinced the bearing is not moving in the arm. Also, the hub in pressed tight into the bearing, so I'm almost sure the play is in the bearing. I could have bought two bad bearings, but that seems unlikely. My understanding is the axle stub squeezes the split inner race of the bearing together to preload the bearing via the torque on the axle nut. (The axle nut&washer press on the hub, which presses on the outer of the two parts of the inner race, the inside of axle stub presses on the inner of the two parts of the inner race.) Is it possible this is not happening properly? I did not have the proper tool to drive out the hub, so I used a 30mm impact socket and a big hammer. Could I have damaged the inner lip of the hub so the axle is pressing on it instead of the inner bearing race? Axle nut torques between min. (300 Nm) and max. (320 Nm) don't seem to affect the play. Any suggestions welcome. 1982 911SC

[kqw]

Check your torque settings. Nm vs. Ft/lbs. IIRC..the torque should be in Ft/Lbs....

[Gunter]

Sc rear bearing torque 217-231 ft-lb (Bentley 420-21)
30mm socket over the nut is correct but, is it a 3/4 drive? A 1/2 inch drive will not do it!
With the wheels on the ground, E-brake set, in reverse gear, remove center cap, insert 30mm 3/4"-drive socket with a short extension, use a 3/4" breaker bar with a pipe extension and tighten up. The play in my bearing disappeared after I did the above.