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suspension rebuild ready - where should i start?
I have collected the parts for a good suspension rebuild. However, I am a little unsure of where to start. Any guidance / tips would be appreciated.
The parts' box includes: Front Turbo Tie Rods Ball Joints 21mm Torsion Bars Elephant Racing Poly Bronze Bushings (Control Arms) Koni Sport Inserts Sway Bar Bushings Rear Koni Sport Shocks 27mm Torsion Bars Sway-A-Way Adjustable Spring Plates Elephant Racing Poly Bronze Bushings (Spring Plates) |
I did this entire job last week. I started with the rear, right side. Started and finished Mon. night. Started and finished rear left on Tues. night. Started finished entire front end Fri. night. Limped to the shop on Sunday night for corner balance and alignment and will pick up tonight.
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Rick, I want to take it for a spin when you get it back to compare it to mine. Where did you take it for the alignment?
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i started with the front. did not even get bushings for the rear until i got through the front. the front was easier, and a confidence builder.,
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I would strat by drenching all bolts (on car) with some kind of loosening lubricant spray overnight. Make sure you have all the stands and jacks necessary.
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I took it to AGS, since they're so close to my house AND one of the two shops I trust. Car is very low and super stiff now. Just brought her home. This will take some getting used to.
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AGS? Or ASG....
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Rick, how many hours do you think you had into it. I plan to do this shortly, Front- turbo tie rods, ball joints,poly bronze bushings, and lower; rear- poly bronze bushings and lower on a 77 911. Thanks Jerry
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there are so many veriables that its impossible to predict time. as an example, it took me all of 5 minutes to get off the castle nut off the 1st side. took about a hour and a half for the other side.
your results may vary. |
From the time I jacked the car up on Mon. night, I spent about 3 hrs. doing the right rear. T-bar was stuck and a few other little irritants. Tues. night was very tough. T-bar was really, really stuck and one poly bushing needed considerable shaving to go in (thank you Dremel Tool). Of course, I dropped a bushing on the garage floor after I had it covered in that horrible lube, so that had to be cleaned off. Got all done in around 5 hrs. Fri. night I jacked up the car at 7:30pm and was totally finished with front by 2:30am. We got VERY lucky with the bushings on the front. The old ones came off very easily, new ones slid or pressed right on, castle nuts took the longest. If you have help and have never done this before, I'd plan a full Sat. and Sun. just to be safe.
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Forgot to add that you should find the factory tool for tightening up the ball joint castle nut. I wish I had had an air compressor to get them off. I used a MAPP torch to heat the bushings and they came right off. Of course, don't forget to have a 12 pk. on ice in the garage and your CD carousel loaded with Hendrix, WHO, Fleetwood Mac and a few packs of smokes. I can't imagine how long it would have taken without these proper tools.
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Thanks Rick for your reply- I was wondering about buying the ball joint tool for tighting down the ball joint nut. Can't see anyway of torquing the nut without the tool. Of course it a killer to pay 50.00 bucks for probably one time use. But better to be safe then sorry. From reading past posts kind of concerned about binding of the a-arms after the poly-bronze bushing install. Thanks again, Jerry
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re-sell it for $45 to somebody.
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