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H.G.P.'s Avatar
 
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"Paper" thin like lower valve cover gaskets, I'm ticked

Could someone explain why my gasket kit came with what appears to be paper thin LOWER valve cover gaskets (11 nut) ?

The upper gaskets however seem to be made of a high quality more thick pad.

It seems almost obvious that the lower would be more prone to leak, which mine are from four of the nuts, so why the thin stuff for the lowers? Has anyone really had success with them?

I'm very keyed down over this, as the rest of my newly rebuild is completely leak free, doing all the sealant application myself.

So, after searching the threads, tomorrow I have to make a run to get some silicone bead gaskets first, and if not completely leak free after those then the full silicone type. I'm ticked over this.

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Old 04-07-2005, 05:54 PM
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Before you go off the deep end, I'll just let you know that leaky rocker shafts look just like leaky lower cam covers.
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Old 04-07-2005, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tyson Schmidt
Before you go off the deep end, I'll just let you know that leaky rocker shafts look just like leaky lower cam covers.
Yes, but very doubtful. Used the RS seals, and threebond there.

I know it's those thinnies. As I took the covers off and they oil soakers.

Also, I used new Porsche crushed washers and new loc nuts, and torqued them properly to start.

Also in the kit there came some "cork" like valve cover gaskets that don't even fit, those look better thn the thin ones too,
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Old 04-07-2005, 06:03 PM
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Are your covers flat. If you've got warped covers no gasket is going to seal them.
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Old 04-07-2005, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtw
Are your covers flat. If you've got warped covers no gasket is going to seal them.
I did a search on this board on valve cover gaskets, and one of the observations of sammy2g was that "In a perfect world you don't need them but this isn't a perfect world. Gasket surfaces are not perfectly flat or clean or tightened, that is when the red gaskets help."

My oil "pan" gaskets are alao different, and doing the job thank you.
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Old 04-07-2005, 06:17 PM
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It also does not explain the differences between the materials of the lower vs. upper included in the engine gasket kit!
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Old 04-07-2005, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by H.G.P.
I did a search on this board on valve cover gaskets, and one of the observations of sammy2g was that "In a perfect world you don't need them but this isn't a perfect world. Gasket surfaces are not perfectly flat or clean or tightened, that is when the red gaskets help."

My oil "pan" gaskets are alao different, and doing the job thank you.
So if I read between the lines of your usual obfuscated and evasive responses, you didn't check to see if your covers are flat. I understand all covers aren't perfectly flat, but on a 36 year old set of covers, they're likely to be bloody magnesium Moebius strips with spark plug holes. If you want no leaks on your valve covers, listen and learn from the collective experience here.

The sump cover is steel. Apples and oranges.
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Old 04-07-2005, 06:49 PM
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In a continuing spirit of helpfulness:

Your valve covers (until you ensure otherwise):

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Old 04-07-2005, 06:56 PM
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Yeah, don't even bother trying to get mag covers to seal.

If you want originality, then you could find some early SC aluminum covers (which look identical to the mag ones but are stronger) ) and get them powder coated black. Then have them resurfaced at the gasket mating surface, and use the graphite impregnated style gaskets torqued to about 10 ft/lbs.
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:06 PM
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Cool

In a continuing spirit of helpfulness; Didn't you notice the different thickness of the valve cover gaskets when you rebuilt this motor?

Maybe you should contact the people that assembled you gasket set.

David Duffield
Old 04-07-2005, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tyson Schmidt
Yeah, don't even bother trying to get mag covers to seal.

If you want originality, then you could find some early SC aluminum covers (which look identical to the mag ones but are stronger) ) and get them powder coated black. Then have them resurfaced at the gasket mating surface, and use the graphite impregnated style gaskets torqued to about 10 ft/lbs.
I sanded them awhile back, but don't recall how much. Yes one of the dealers I visited along time ago recommended different covers.

Also, the rep who I talked to today gave the option of graphite gaskets, but I knew nothing of them, so I ordered the silicone bead kind first. I'll try that and see what happens, they have to be better than what is down there now.
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:29 PM
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If you are going to use the silicone gaskets with the mag covers, use veeeeeery little torque. Like just enought to make the gasket begin to bulge ever so slightly. I'm guessing like around 3-4 ft/lbs or less.
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by old_porsche
In a continuing spirit of helpfulness; Didn't you notice the different thickness of the valve cover gaskets when you rebuilt this motor?

Maybe you should contact the people that assembled you gasket set.

David Duffield
Yes, but being my first rebuild thought that was standard territory.

Still wonder if others that have had engine gasket (complete) sets, also had the "paperish" lower gaskets, that differed compared to the uppers.

As I recall, the same material was also on the chain housing gaskets.
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tyson Schmidt
If you are going to use the silicone gaskets with the mag covers, use veeeeeery little torque. Like just enought to make the gasket begin to bulge ever so slightly. I'm guessing like around 3-4 ft/lbs or less.
OK, these are the beaded kind. (I've never seen them before)
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:36 PM
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I didn't get paper thin gaskets with my "oil change kit" from Pelican. They are not silicone either. Same as the top ones. Not one drop leaks out of the lowers and I put them on with a little oil like an oil filter gasket and tighened them down to 6 ft/lbs. That's 72 inch/lbs, which is much easier to read. NO sealants were used top of bottom.
Old 04-07-2005, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zeke
I didn't get paper thin gaskets with my "oil change kit" from Pelican. They are not silicone either. Same as the top ones. Not one drop leaks out of the lowers and I put them on with a little oil like an oil filter gasket and tighened them down to 6 ft/lbs. That's 72 inch/lbs, which is much easier to read. NO sealants were used top of bottom.
Mine came in a complete engine gasket set. The entire set is like a pre-package deal when doing an entire engine rebuild. This particular set I obtained from a different source, but the whole gasket set appears to be standard.

I still can't figure why these would be used in a Porsche after all. I may take a picture of them after I put the new ones in.
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Old 04-07-2005, 08:46 PM
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i don't use the thin ones as they tend to leak. . gray fatties rock. i do have a big azz belt sander to face the covers. they're generally warped like crazy.
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Old 04-07-2005, 08:49 PM
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do another search and you'll find my explanation of how to sand the covers so they are flat
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Old 04-07-2005, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by randywebb
do another search and you'll find my explanation of how to sand the covers so they are flat
I used the method in Wayne's book,
In about 20 minutes the new beaded ones go on, if they don't hold I'll try to find out what J.Ws gray fatties are.
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Old 04-08-2005, 02:34 PM
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Like Zeke, I just finished my Spring valve adjust/oil change/plugs/air filter, and used the standard gaskets from Pelican.
After two hours running, no leaks and a very smooth engine.
Insurance goes on next Friday....THERE IS A GOD!

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Old 04-08-2005, 03:31 PM
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