Replacing Ignition Switch

Trpperdave · 04-07-2005, 12:38 PM

Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the ignition switch on a 1986 Carrera? Can you provide directions? TIA

steven polaski · steven polaski's Garage

The hardest part is getting the locking device back into the steeringwheel colum the rest is simple.

kqw · 04-07-2005, 01:56 PM

Are you referring to the electrical portion of the switch only... or the entire ignition switch with the steering lock etc.?

TMH · 04-07-2005, 01:58 PM

Let me know if you are looking for a used replacement, taken (working) out of an '87. Also, if you don't have the Bentley manual then you should probably get one. I removed the ignition switch assembly from the track car, which I replaced with a start button. I didn't want to take the chance of the steering locking on the track. The Bentley manual provided the detailed instructions for removal and re-installation.

Tom

Trpperdave · 04-07-2005, 01:59 PM

I just got this car and have not really driven it yet. My mechanic is telling me that it is difficult to turn the key (sometimes taking a few minutes) and that the ignition switch will need to be replaced. Not sure if it is the whole or just a part of the switch.
Thoughts
If this is a simple job, I will try it myself.

Kelly Bell · Kelly Bell's Garage

I have done it in my '75. Pretty straight forward on a scale of 1 to 10 its a 2. You have to work on your back, and if you have A/C, it is a little more trouble, but is straight forward enuf.

golfnow · 04-07-2005, 02:51 PM

If it’s just hard to turn a little WD-40 might do the trick. I would remove it all anyway and try to oil the mechanical portion. First thing to look at is what kind of fasteners where used to secure the switch to the dash remove the black plastic ring around the switch ( it just unscrews) and look at the two fasteners behind it. If it has not been apart before you will see two screws that are rounded and smooth (sheer bolts) if that is the case now is when you go buy a Dremel. Now that you have the wonder tool cut slots in the sheer bolts and turn them into big screws take a big screwdriver and turn them out ( mine had lock tight on them also) so be prepared to apply some force. Next remove the electrical plugs on the rear the big black one and a small two wire white plug towards the steering wheel. I found that I also had to remove two more black plugs from the bulkhead directly behind the switch to get room to work. Next loosen the locking nut on the end closest to the steering wheel and get an allen wrench and loosen the allen screw that it was locking.
Take the thing out (you may have to turn the steering wheel slightly to get it out).
Is it hard no but you will spend some time laying upside down in your car, and it gives you an excuse to get a Dremel

First time I did it took awhile( no Dremel tried a coal chisel

didn’t work got Dremel and all was good) I can do it in 5 to 7 minutes now that I changed the sheer bolts to regular bolts now.

Trpperdave · 04-07-2005, 03:25 PM

Yes, I am interested in a used ignition switch. How much for yours?

MobileWrks · 04-07-2005, 04:47 PM

Its pretty easy. alot of back work... get comfortable, dont start if you wont finish.. one thing that golf is addressing are the bolts that hold it in place(behind key cover) if its just screws which most people replace them with, go for.. But if they have the break away bolts. think twice if its your first... GOOD LUCK

FrayAdjacent911 · 04-07-2005, 04:57 PM

I wouldn't recommend spraying WD-40 in anything that is supposed to move. It's NOT a lubricant, it's a water displacer. It might feel slick for a while, but it will gum up given a little time to dry. I'd suggest a penetrating oil. Maybe some CLP out of an aerosol can.

safecracker · 04-07-2005, 05:11 PM

WD40 will NOT create a problem. The penetrating oil you suggest will. WD40 is one of the few things that doesn't gum up the mechanism. Squirt some in and work the key in and out. It will tend to free up problems from past lubricants. Obviously there could be a mechanical issue, but WD40 will not hurt it at all.

FrayAdjacent911 · 04-07-2005, 05:36 PM

safe, WD40 may get it working good short term, but everything I've used it on, and have heard people using it on (firearms, pistols, etc) become gunked up very quickly. It's good for RIGHT NOW, but the lubricating properties do not last.

WD40 is not a lubricant! It's a water displacer! Read the label

(the only benefit you'd get in this situation would be the action of the stuff blasting crap out of the workings. Would not an aerosol penetrating oil do the same? )

safecracker · 04-08-2005, 03:14 PM

I can't speak of firearms etc. but I can speak of locks. I have operated a locksmith company for 32 years so I have just a little experience on the matter. I am aware of it being a "water displacer" as you put it. Any lock exposed to changes of temperature especially going to the cold side have more problems caused by wrong lubrication than anything else. Graphite, lockease, 3 in 1 oil, silicone, and especially penetrating oil will harden and the larger problem is they attract debri of any kind. Locks aren't guns, they have delicate moving parts that can be restricted from moving the complete travel required for the key to operate. Yes, WD40 is not a lasting lubricant and believe it or not, we DON'T want it to be. WD40 will NEVER create a problem in a lock. If you notice a difference in the smoothness of the key going in or out, give it a little squirt periodically.

I do not intend to say that WD40 will cure other mechanical problems within the lock, but it does a good job to loosen wrong lubrication that has been put in the lock previously.

golfnow · 04-09-2005, 04:29 PM

Ok I used WD-40 and it worked just fine but if you really want the best oil you need a boat a harpoon and a Sperm Wail I hear it is the best oil you can find and my car already has a wail tail