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Old 12-14-2016, 04:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #161 (permalink)
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Restoration in progress in 911S Resurrection Not Restoration
Old 12-15-2016, 05:27 PM
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Wow This car has more threads that I've ever seen for one car. There are at least 3 on Early 911S and then this one.

Richard Newton
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #163 (permalink)
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Wow This car has more threads that I've ever seen for one car. There are at least 3 on Early 911S and then this one.

Richard Newton
Preserve, Conserve or Restore
Since I am not an expert in metal, I look for advice in the most active forums. I opened one in rennli also to see what they think about there. Any advice other than bills and patience?
Old 12-22-2016, 01:32 PM
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:06 AM
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:07 AM
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:39 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #167 (permalink)
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:42 AM
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By the layers of paint, the incrustations in the bonnet were made after the factory. Or that sees my eye, but in the flares you see the yellow color of factory. Were the vehicles in 73 before repainting stripped?





These first three photos have been taken in the right flare back


and





These last two correspond to the front. In the corners if I can see the first layer of factory yellow (which I think is the factory) But inside the headlights added only I see the yellow that does not correspond to the yellow light. The bonnet has a wrinkle therefore I understand that the car had a front touch. Maybe he took advantage of this moment and reused the bonnet by adding headlights?
Old 04-21-2017, 03:09 AM
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Old 06-01-2017, 02:33 AM
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so you keep on going. good.

If I were you at this stage, I'd definitely take the oil lines off, a) to clear the area/metal behind them and b) to be able to clean the oilcoller and pressure test it, as well as the metal area behind it. adressing sheet metal with stuff mounted in front of it is only half-way-method.
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Old 06-01-2017, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
so you keep on going. good.

If I were you at this stage, I'd definitely take the oil lines off, a) to clear the area/metal behind them and b) to be able to clean the oilcoller and pressure test it, as well as the metal area behind it. adressing sheet metal with stuff mounted in front of it is only half-way-method.
Hi, I tried to remove them but I do not get it so I have this pending point that they do when I pass through the workshop. I also do not want to cut the hoses since I think I can save the whole installation. In the areas of difficult access (behind the lines) I have been able to clean quite well since I have partially dismantled it, I have not appreciated rust in this part although it is in the support of the flap that goes next to the door. Regarding the refrigerator ... Any idea how to clean it mounted? I guess with grease and air removed?
In the course of the line let by comity and by preserving "natural parts of the car" undercoat. I gave him a hand of epoxy after degreasing it well. And I stay like this. Do you think that a layer of epoxy on top of the undercoat could accumulate moisture?

pd:Thanks for the work outline. These tips are the ones that I value since I work day to day !!

Last edited by _baudett; 06-01-2017 at 03:54 AM..
Old 06-01-2017, 03:50 AM
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Old 06-01-2017, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _baudett View Post
Any idea how to clean it mounted?
Acording to my humble opinion, it will not work out properly with the stuff mounted.

My idea:
a) the short way: defix the oilcooler from the bottom L-mount so you can at least pull it away a bit to acess the area

b) the better way: soak the joints with wd40/balistol 2-3 times over 48hrs and then take the install apart

same for the area where the leverd sway bar is mounted.

don't go half way. not now!

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Last edited by Flojo; 06-01-2017 at 04:01 AM..
Old 06-01-2017, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
Acording to my humble opinion, it will not work out properly with the stuff mounted.

My idea:
a) the short way: defix the oilcooler from the bottom L-mount so you can at least pull it away a bit to acess the area

b) the better way: soak the joints with wd40/balistol 2-3 times over 48hrs and then take the install apart

same for the area where the leverd sway bar is mounted.

don't go half way. not now!

I have that echo, what is a part that I have pending is to clean the radiator itself. I undid the two screws and put a support underneath / use the denfesa / so I will not force the lines and proceeded to perform the cleaning so I do not have the photos here!
Regarding point B, what do you mean by joints? I where I tried to proceed to disassemble the complete line was trying to remove the rear oil tank in conjunction with the front cooler. Everything, but I found 1 screw that did not come out of the line / attached photo / and the difficult access to the oil tank. I guess with hours will be achieved
I have proceeded to clean the lines of oil with stripper! They have been pretty good. The paint stripper let it act 20 minutes since the paint that covered it and the dirt was superficial

+


That part in the wheel if I admit that I have not worked yet. I have to find some good supports for the chassis since I only have the hydraulic jack. Can that part be partially dismantled? Investigating I found that this part is necessary to disassemble it to work well the inner delentero. The part of the deposit I remain a part of difficult access by which I can only access by removing what I think is called torsion bar? Or this is the back. Attached photo to not be so unclear.



About halfway. All the reason, with months I have realized that work that I did fast in the car now I unpack them and do them again, as I think they should be done, one of these parts is this ... which I have pending back To pickle and to treat with another type of epoxy that is giving me good results



Old 06-01-2017, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _baudett View Post
I think is called torsion bar?
that is the go-through sway bar. later cars have the sway bar under the car (as from early G-model.

(torson bar is front: in the A-arms and rear in the tube.
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Old 06-01-2017, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
that is the go-through sway bar. later cars have the sway bar under the car (as from early G-model.

(torson bar is front: in the A-arms and rear in the tube.
Thanks for the clarification, I have seen preparations that mount this bar above where I have it located now. To my understanding whatever it is to provide structure forward, it is good, but we do not want to alter the car.
I did not know the other models mounted it underneath !!

Is it too much to dismantle it? Then I'll take a look at the car to see what tools are needed ...
Old 06-01-2017, 04:41 AM
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #178 (permalink)
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Hello again, I'll come back with a question. Has anyone encountered anything similar? The bonnet has a hole, the bonnet holder, and the chassis plate of that area. The first hole is perfect, the 2 as you see no. The 3 is perfect again. When decapping the capo remove a ball of putty from that place .... Any idea what could be?
I put the same photos that I put in the forum early!
Thank you!





Old 06-17-2017, 04:28 AM
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Any idea if this welding of points is of epoch?


Old 06-17-2017, 09:13 AM
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