Flank's 71 Targa restro - Through the rocker, oil cooler line installation

[Flank]

Hi all. To continue, I'd like to show how I added the oil cooler lines to the 71 Targa. The passenger side door jam had major issues. While I was wire brushing away the paint, I was uncovering huge amounts of bondo.

and

I couldn't believe that someone would of filled in that much missing metal with bondo, it was coming out like big rocks! Luckly I had a spare lower wing that I was able to use, along with a new door jam. The rocker panel also had a few holes in it.

I wanted to add a oil cooler up in the front fender, so I got a 28 tubed brass oil cooler. The oil lines came from Mocal (Bat) they are the corrigated stainless steel lines that they sold a few years back. They are nice and fairly easy to install and they hold the bends that you put in them.

One of the hard things to make was that bracket support that the two lines go through because the bracket mounts to a curved surface. After making the one and installing it, I decided I needed more support for the lines inside of the rocker. Since the bracket was so labor intensive I settled with using two 'adel' clamps that before the install I bent them to look like they were made to hold two pipes.

From Stoddard, I was able to get a nos 911S passenger fender joining panel that has the cutouts for the oil lines. Through another company I was able to get the grommets that you see. Before the final install, I put the door back on to make sure there were no interference problems. At the rear, behind were the door jam goes,

I cut the back off of the 'stiffener' so the oil lines can be routed like they're supposed to. Then, with a lot of care, I welded the piece I took off back onto that 'stiffener'.
I don't have an 'after' picture of the door jam after I installed it, but basicly, I used the large spot welder on the seam along the door opening and on the outer contour with the rear wing, I used aircraft "cherry" rivets every inch. I used the rivets to avoid to much heat to the fender line.

Finally, I wanted to show you all what you see in the engine compartment. I had to weld up two large holes on each side where the a/c lines "used" to go. I don't plan on installing any a/c. But anyone that is trying to add an oil cooler to an early car that never had the oil cooler will appreiciate the time and effort it took to aquire all of the neccessary hardware. I saw and sent back a lot of stuff that just was not good enough. I would get the oil line 'consoles' that had enough corrosion (because of dis-similar metal) that they wouldn't seal. Also if I'm trying to make a car that will last, why use parts that are already worn out? Here is were Cy from Doc & Cy's came through again. He sold me a brand new, never used console, the thermostat and all the lines but one are new also. The total cost for everything including the lines, the adapters (AN to Metric), and the tubed cooler was just over $1000.00.
I hope you all found this interesting. On my next post, I'll show you the rear seat area replacement and the repairs done to the corners of the windshield frame. If you missed any of the posts I made, here is a link to the last one, once there you can even go back to the first entry of this story. Flank's 71 Targa restro - Roll over loop replacement
Thanks for reading.

[Jays72T]

Incredible work, very nice and looking forward to hearing more.

[BK911]

Where in central Florida are you located? I am just north of Orlando in Casselberry. I'd love to come check out your project.

[Flank]

BK911,
I live in Clarcona, in north west orange county. It would be great if you wanted to come out and see the work first hand. Now that the chassis rust repairs are done, I have the body of the Targa mounted to a rotiserie that I made. Those pictures will be coming soon. I'm posting the work in the order I did the repairs, taking pictures from the photo albums, scanning them and then making these threads. Look for more to come later today. Thanks.

[304065]

Flank, damn good post. I have to do this to my '66 eventually and your detailed shots are a big help.

[Flank]

Hi all,
Has anyone else used this type of oil line? I hope they don't develope stress cracks. It's not coming back out if it does. I plan to terminate the ends up by the oil cooler and use the short factory hoses to actually make the connection to the cooler. Thanks.

[jpnovak]

Flank, your work is truly inspiring. I love your posts. And I thought I had a bunch of work to do on my car.

your documentation of hiding the oil lines is first rate! I wanted to do this when I replaced my outer rockers but I did not realize how they routed up through the hinge post and vertical fender support. It's all clear now. maybe on the next car.

[Flank]

Novak,
Hi, it's funny you mentioned 'hide' the oil line. At the time I did this, I thought of building a 'stealth' oil cooler fan that would fit inside a 'fake' battery. I would of made some shrouding out of rubber. The back side of the passenger battery box would have holes that would blow air onto the oil cooler. The fan that is inside of the 'battery' would get its power from what would look like the positive lead for the battery. That was an idea anyway.
With the engine that I have to go into the car, a 2.2S motor with no A/C, I'm hoping just the 28 tubed cooler will be enough. Thanks.

[911SCfanatic]

More, please. The more detail the better. I'm just about to do the seat pans and A-pillar repair now that I have all of the metal. Thanks.

[Biff]

Very nice, I'm impressed!

[Flank]

Hey Fanatic, Some advice I could give you on doing any of the sheet metal repairs, more than half of the battle is just having the stuff you need to do the job right. It's not a lot of stuff (yeah right), here's a list of the basics:
1. A 220v mig welder with the gas bottle.
2. A welder mask with the auto-darkening lens (I never got one), on the
last of my repairs, I was welding up into the foot wells and there is no
room to use the old standard mask that you nod your head to make it
drop, so I'd just suffer and do it. But I sure wish I had one of those
lenses.
3. You'll need lots of clamps, about a half dozen 1" 'c' clamps, a few
larger, and a few larger yet. Also get a few of the visegrip 'c' clamps.
4. You'll need lots of 'clecos', you can get used ones from aircraft
surplus stores. They come in four sizes determined by their color, the
smallest are silver (#40), then copper color (#30), then get all the
black ones you can (#21), brass color (#10) and copper again (1/4").
The best size is #21 and #10's a #!0 is the same as 3/16", this is a
good size for your 'immitation spot welds'. There are at least two
types of clecos. There is the type that you use a special plyers (cleco
plyers) and there are the ones that use a wing nut. You'll need both!
While the smaller ones (with the plyers) are great for holding things
together, the ones with the wing nut really allows you to crank them
down and draw that metal in tight, which is what you want. When I
use a 'draw cleco' (the type with the wing nut) I like to add a steal
washer that the cleco goes through, so when I tighten it, it helps to
distribute the load.
5. You'll need a spray can of 'lay-out dye', this blue ink is used for
seeing the scribe lines that mark where you want to cut or drill.
You'll also need a scribe.
6. You'll want all kinds of lights. The more you can illuminate where you
are working, the better.
7. Also you'll want a hand grinder that take the 4" or 4 1/2" grinding
wheels. A straight die grinder is also very usefull.

These are the basic starter tools that I would recomend. I'm sure the folks out there can add to this. Good luck!

[911SCfanatic]

I have everything but 4 and 5. Regarding welder, I have a 110v Miller Cricket (MIG w/ CO2) that I got from my father-in-law--I hope that will do. Please post a ton of pics and advice. Guys like you and Zeke are invaluable to a lot of us.

[Flank]

Dude I have to be carefull my head doesn't swell up to much with all of these nice comments. But really I'm just your average joe. I can't find my third photo album (the most recent). It has pictures of the finished front suspension pan installation. Plus a killer rotiserie that I made and now have the body mounted to.
But I really appreiciate all of your comments.

[FrayAdjacent911]

I can only hope I'll be able to do some of the stuff you are doing, Flank. My car is going to need it!

[ianc]

I hope you all found this interesting.

Ha! Talent for understatement, haven't you?

ianc

[lateapex911]

So Flank, great stuff! How'd it all work out? Can you point me to the threads I probably missed?? Thanks!

[lateapex911]

So Flank, great stuff! How'd it all work out? Can you point me to the threads I probably missed?? Thanks!

[Flank]

Hey Mr. Lateapex, Thanks for the compliment. Here is a link to my latest posting. It covers the rotisiserie I made. Flank's 71 Targa - 911 rotisserie pictures - plus plans so you can build your own.
Then there is one on the front suspension pan installation. Flank's 71 Targa - Pictures of the finished suspension pan installation
Also here is one on the Chassis Jig I made to do the suspension pan work. Flank's 71 Targa restro - Home made chasis jig - pictures
Then here's a good one on replacing most of an inner fender. Flank's 71 Targa restro - inner fender repalcement
From these, you'll find links to carry you back farther. I think there are about six 'installments'. If any one needs any info, I'd be glad to help.
Flank