Identify this Front Suspension

[Rodney Nelson]

Hi, I need help identifying my front suspension. It was on my 1972 however the entire thing was front dated and now I'm bringing it back. I'm trying to determine what is good and she be refurbished.

So, my questions are...

what year is this suspension off?

Is it better than stock?

Or what do I need to know?

[TRE Cup]

What you have there is early underbody sway bar 911 - 1974-ish. Usually we see these with an aluminum rack support, but your's has the steel tube version. Hmm.... this is speaking 1976 912E to me
nothing trick about it. Measure the thickness of the sway bar. Its decent use on an otherwise totally stock pre 73 car
oh and very important! You are missing the clamps and bushings that attach the bar to those skinny extensions off the tube

[Flat6pac]

It’s like a later from 74 or later with the later front sway bar. The early ones used drop link through the body
Bruce

[75 911s]

Looks like my stock 75 suspension with steel crossmember - except gray instead of black

[sedouglas72]

Looks exactly like my '74 as well.

[chrismorse]

Originally Posted by sedouglas72

Looks exactly like my '74 as well.

Looks like my 74 with a 20 mm Carrera bar.

[Rodney Nelson]

So based on what everyone seems to be saying this is a 74+ version with the sway bar that the 1972 did not have.

So, should I just use this one? Is it worth sandblasting and powder coating? Or should I sell this one and buy another style/used one and have that powder coated?

Thank you everyone for your inputs!

[bkreigsr]

Originally Posted by TRE Cup

...Hmm.... this is speaking 1976 912E to me ....

FWIW - my 912E has a through-the-body bar. It is not on the original window sticker, so it's probably either a dealer add on, or later modification.

[ILXLR8]

The 912E has an aluminum crossmember, so what you have is not E.
Looks like 74-75

[chrismorse]

Hi Rodney
Without knowing if the bushings or ball joints are "recent", I wound pull it apart to rebush, replace the ball joints and check the torsion bars for wear marks.
This makes the powder coat operation more effective at sealing up the metal, plus possibly upgrade the t bars if you are going to drive it hard.
If you are going to get serious with competition, you might want to ditch the undercount bar and go with a through the body anti roll bar for adjustability and ease of upgrading the bar itself.
chris

[Rodney Nelson]

Originally Posted by chrismorse

Hi Rodney
Without knowing if the bushings or ball joints are "recent", I wound pull it apart to rebush, replace the ball joints and check the torsion bars for wear marks.
This makes the powder coat operation more effective at sealing up the metal, plus possibly upgrade the t bars if you are going to drive it hard.
If you are going to get serious with competition, you might want to ditch the undercount bar and go with a through the body anti roll bar for adjustability and ease of upgrading the bar itself.
chris

HI Chris,

Thank you for your reply. I'm not going to use my car for competition just for the street but I want it to handle better than a standard 72T if possible. It sounds like you are saying that through the body torsion bars are better? I am definitely planning on pulling all of the bushings out and replace. And while they are out get everything powder coated. Should I try to find an aluminum one instead? or is the Steel one I have fine? Should I try to find a used though the body set up. money is a factor, so if not much gain, should I stay with what I have?

Thanks,

Rodney