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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Burlington, ON
Posts: 605
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Front end rebuild and tie rod troubles
So I started the front end rebuild on my '82 this weekend. It's going to be a painful process.................
Nothing quite like bashing away with a hammer and burning out cobalt drill bits trying to get 20+ year old seized suspension parts apart! Had to drill out the wedge bolt, dremel the ball joint castle nut, bash the tie rod end out, partly drill (*&^$@#$ spring steel) and hammer out the roll pin (and broke my pin punch to boot), bottle jack the strut out of the housing, and finally come to a standstill with the old tie rod. I have a turbo tie rod kit to go in, and I can't seem to get the old one out. I've levered it as much as possible. I checked the forums, and apparently the large cad-plated washer type thing (great description....) acts as a locknut?? Which way does it loosen? Opposite or the same direction that I turn the tie rod for removal (counterclockwise). Kirk
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- '00 Dodge Viper GTS - Steel Grey - Yep...a domestic. - '87 930 - Guards Red - Sold - '82 911SC - Grand Prix White - Gone - '78 928 - Silver - Long gone - '04 Subaru WRX wagon - Sold |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Encinitas (San Diego CA)
Posts: 4,495
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Both sides remove counter clockwise, like most threaded parts. did you soak / spray everything with a PB Blaster type penetrating oil? That may work on being able to take apart old hardware (obviously not he pin).
Doug
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,750
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Heat is your friend, but I guess you're past that stage. The old rods come out of the steering rack CCW. Hit the "lock" ring with a chisel on the edge driving it CCW.
The lock ring serves to orintate the fork with the rubber bushing. The Turbo unit is universal in orientation, so it goes in until it stops threading against its own washer/spacer. Just cinch it up good, no need to go crazy on torque once it's snugged home. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,052
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Agreed, some heat will often loosen that stuck inner end. You can also use the inner nut as a point to run an impact on as it is reverse threaded. Basically, tightening the inner nut in turn loosens the inner tie rod end. Sometimes it helps to remove the rest of the tie rod and then get something like a pipe wrench, channel locks etc on that inner end to break it free..
-Chris
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1987 Guards Red Targa (sold) 2006 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4, the "man-e-van" 1998 CR500 Well on the fringe...... |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Burlington, ON
Posts: 605
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Thanks guys, I'll try whacking the ring with a chisel tonight, and maybe throw the propane torch on it for fun.
Kirk
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- '00 Dodge Viper GTS - Steel Grey - Yep...a domestic. - '87 930 - Guards Red - Sold - '82 911SC - Grand Prix White - Gone - '78 928 - Silver - Long gone - '04 Subaru WRX wagon - Sold Last edited by Kirk911SC; 04-18-2005 at 10:02 AM.. |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,493
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If you have a big enough set of vice grips you can latch the grips onto two of the notches in the lock ring and whack on the vice grips with a BFH. Has always worked for me.
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Burlington, ON
Posts: 605
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It's pretty tight getting in there with the sway bar in the way. Maybe that should come off too?
I don't want to drop the rack if I don't have to. I put a pair of vice grips on the tie rod shaft and started turning, it eventually started loosening the shaft near one of the nuts, but not at the rubber bushing/locknut area. So much for that idea...... This whole suspension rebuild has been an ordeal, I hope it pays off.
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- '00 Dodge Viper GTS - Steel Grey - Yep...a domestic. - '87 930 - Guards Red - Sold - '82 911SC - Grand Prix White - Gone - '78 928 - Silver - Long gone - '04 Subaru WRX wagon - Sold |
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