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Bird. It's the word...
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PolyBronze - Having Trouble with Fit
I seem to be having trouble with the fact that the outer diameters of my torsion tubes are a bit too big... I think the outer (red) section of the bearing is too loose.
Any advice? Chuck?
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John Forcier Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway |
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It'll be legen-waitforit
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 6,991
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Did you use the shims?
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Bob James 06 Cayman S - Money Penny 18 Macan GTS Gone: 79 911SC, 83 944, 05 Cayenne Turbo, 10 Panamera Turbo |
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Me like track days
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 10,209
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I had to add several shims in this area - more than the other sections F&R
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- Craig 3.4L, SC heads, 964 cams, B&B headers, K27 HF ZC turbo, Ruf IC. WUR & RPM switch, IA fuel head, Zork, G50/50 5 speed. 438 RWHP / 413 RWTQ - "930 is the wild slut you sleep with who tries to kill you every time you "get it on" - Quote by Gabe Movie: 930 on the dyno |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,737
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I guess he's talking rears since torsion tube refers to that end. My sockets for the inner bearing were somewhat rusty and a little detoriorated. After thorough cleaning and prep, I used polyurethane caulk to "glue" them in place. Gives you plenty of time to install the spring plate and torsion bar for good fit and alignment. Do not put any other pressure, i.e., indexing the bars or setting car back on the ground for 24 hrs. The poly caulk is about as tough of caulk you can buy, but it remains somewhat flexible.
Be careful to use just enough if you go this route, You don't want any mucking up the works. You can get it out with effort and clean up the stuff with some heat and a stiff rotary wire brush in the future. It's not like you are using JB Weld. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 5,668
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Hi John
There is a surprising amount of variation in the torsion tube inner diameter, car to car. My recommendation is use a shim if yours is loose, as per the instructions. Milt's method also sounds good, though I haven't tried it. I don't have any experience with the longevity of poly caulk.
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Chuck Moreland - elephantracing.com - vonnen.com |
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Bird. It's the word...
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Thanks very much for the advice. I assumed that shimming was the correct method... I just got hung up on the instructions indicating that you need X amount of pressure to push them in.
Milt, I actually thought of exactly what you suggested. I've had a fair bit of experience with poly calk when I worked on boats... definitely only need "just enough", the stuff is amazing. I think I'll just go with shimming for the time being, and switch to poly calk if I can't get it right. Chuck, I know it's been said, but your polybronze stuff is the ducks nuts!
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John Forcier Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway |
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