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K. Roman's Avatar
 
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Car won't start....need help fast!

So, started the car today, drove about a block, the car sounded a bit funny like it wasn't getting fuel to the cylinders. Then the car died. The battery was fine and the car starter was ok, but it woldn't actually fire up. It sounds like my fuel pump is working, I can here it buzzing but there may be no fuel reaching the engine. Anyone know what I could do?

Thanks,

Roman

PS: I just replaced the battery a couple about a month ago.
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:05 PM
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we had a a 78 sc int he shop that was doing that , the pump sounded like it was working when infact it was barely putting out any preasurre , changed the pump and away she went , im no expert but woth a try if you have a spare pump kicking around
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:24 PM
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roman, if you lift the air sensor bar, do the injectors hum/scream?
can you describe, "the car sounded a bit funny"? was it missing, like it was running a less than 6 cyls?
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:28 PM
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As I pressed on the gas pedal, it felt as if there wasn't any gas going to the engine. It backfired once, then died. I Tryed to start it a few times and it would just turn over and over and not start.
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:32 PM
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If you search, you will find out there is huge load of possible causes for this. You have to systematically check your wires, plugs, CDI, WUR, AAR, control pressures, airbox, popoff valve, fuel flow and pattern etc. I would start looking at your cold control pressure, your vacuum lines, and the condition of your airbox and popoff. Also check the bellows on the top of the mixture control unit.
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
As I pressed on the gas pedal, it felt as if there wasn't any gas going to the engine. It backfired once, then died.
This sounds like lean running. Check all of your vacuum hoses, seals, and your air box for any cracks at the seams.

Just recently Steve76Targa had his pop off valve popped out of its hole. 3.0 engine starts but immediately dies

Also Rondinone had a cracked seam in his air box. rebuilding the airbox

Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:54 AM
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I have to admit, I've had a hole in my airbox ever since I bought the car a couple of years ago. It's on the bottom right side of the box.
It hasn't ever been a problem.
I'll check around back there and around the whole CIS and se what I find.
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:26 AM
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A hole in the airbox below the sensor plate will make no difference. A hole AFTER the sensor plate will be a problem.

Vash and Paul are correct. You need to approach this somewhat systematically. Turn the ignition key on, remove the airbox cover and push up on the sensor plate. You should hear the fuel pump running, but more importantly you should also hear the screaming of the injectors. They make a singing sound. Sort of a muffled squeal. If you hear that, then your problem very well may be ignition rather than fuel.
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:58 AM
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actually, you may not want to listen to me, my car is running like schit right now
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:12 AM
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Thanks for everything guys. I removed the airbox cover and noticed the pop-off valve was completely popped-out of it's hole. I pushed it back in and the car started right up. I drove it a couple of blocks to my garage and now am wondering two things...(A) Should I degrease the Pop-Off valve then J-B weld? (B) Why did it come out in the first place and how do I prevent this from happening?
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:17 AM
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you went lean, and blew it off bigtime. better to clean off the old epoxy, and reglue. remember, most epoxies have a 24 hour cure time. get a mechanic to put your car on a tester and set that mixture for you. $40 maybe. oh, dont leave any chunks of epoxy inside your airbox. that cant be good.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:33 AM
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Thanks Cliff. I'll take it in to my mechanic and have them take a look. I'm in no way capable of playing with CIS.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:36 AM
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Glad to hear that's all it was. Clean and reglue as Vash said. The reason he said to have your mixture set is because it's very possible your mixture was set too lean, and the popoff valve blew off from the airbox backfire. It's possible the original glue was job wasn't too good, either, but why take a chance? Make sure the valve opens easily. You can grease the soft mating surfaces w/ silicone grease so they don't stick together. Bruce Anderson recommends putting a dab of epoxy on the outer ends of the spring so it doesn't work its way loose, although I have had my popoff for 16 yr w/o a problem. JW recommends 3.5% CO. I set mine to just before the point where the idle speed fluctuates. You can also search for the push/pull method.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:43 AM
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Thanks Paul, I just got off the phone with my mechanic, I'm taking it in wednesday. He said most likely the pop-off valve comes unglued 99% of the time when revved in a cold start. He's going to check out the fuel pump, it could be getting weak. I'm glueing today, no driving for 24hrs.
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:07 AM
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This is why you should not use the gas pedal during startup. If the WUR, fuel pump, injectors, AAV and AAR are all working correctly, then the engine should start up, rev higher than normal for a while, then settle down to the normal idle speed, all without requiring use of the gas pedal.
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:41 AM
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