Evercoat Polyester Glazing Putty question?

[Argeo]

Hi,

I am just curious how strong this stuff is. I was wet sanding the rear left quarter and found what appears to be a slight crease. Would this stuff work or is it only good for pin holes? I thought I read that it could be used for small dings. The crease is much shallower than a ding, it is more like a one 1" line maybe a 1/16 an inch deep. Will this stuff crack? I am not sure the benefit of the stuff to the evercoat finishing bondo. It still has to mixed with hardener and it seems harder to sand.

Thanks,

David

[dweymer]

Glazing is used primarily to fill pinholes in bondo; it is also used because it dries fast and hard. It is harder to sand, and I would use bondo for your application; nice and quick.

[Argeo]

Hi Don,

Thanks for the response. Should I use bondo because it is stronger or just easier to use?

I just ran out of the fiberglass bondo and the middle stuff. I do have some of the Evercoat Clear Sand that is applied last. Will that work?


Basically I am trying to avoid buying more for this small imperfection. After this, I hope to never see bondo again. So will the glazing putty work, Evercoat clear Sand?

Thanks,

David

[widebody911]

1" line maybe a 1/16

That's pretty deep for glazing putty. Go ahead an get the smallest can you can get of the good stuff; you'll probably find other stuff you missed.

I too wish they sold this stuff in cans smaller than a quart.

[JeremyD]

Originally posted by Argeo
Basically I am trying to avoid buying more for this small imperfection. After this, I hope to never see bondo again. So will the glazing putty work, Evercoat clear Sand?

Thanks,

David

Yes, that should work fine - sand between your glazing putty - make sure the surface is prepped well - and you should be good to go.

[ken_xman]

I hope you are not using bondo brand filler. Its poo by todays standards. Please go to a paint and autobody supply shop and ask about the professional quality fillers. There is a difference.

[dweymer]

I agree with Ken, I was refering to it as a generic name; there is a BIG difference. I would not use glazing for that.

[JeremyD]

Glazing is supposed to be used just for pin holes - at 1/16th of an inch you should be fine with glazing - no, it does not have good structural integrity that's why you will not want to build it up too much.

As far as fillers - yes there is definitely a difference and good an poor quality. For a Porsche - I would use good quality - it will show later on in the paint. I prefer epoxy mixed with lightening microballoons myself. and would not skimp.

[Argeo]

I have been using all the Evercoat products. Basically three types of bondo (Heavy to light is how I think of it) and glazing putty. Not sure where they stand as far as quality but my friend who does it for a living recommend the stuff.

Now since I have your ears, does the primer have to be like glass smooth before painting. I used 600 and got it pretty smooth. My neighbor used the 600 on one of my fenders and it is noticeably smoother. I would think the paint needs a little something to grab on to.

Any thoughts?

[CarreraCab]

In the years gone by, if the paint used was an acrylic lacquer, I would wetsand the primer with 600. If the paint used was an acrylic enamel, you could 400. With all the great basecoat/clearcoat finishes these days, I still like it to be as smooth as a babies butt before any basecoat goes on. So, I would recommend 600, then a wipedown with Prepsol, a tack rag, then paint. Best Luck, Doug

[widebody911]

My concern with using that much glazing putty is the rate of shrinkage between the glazing and normal filler is different, and might show up later unless you let it cure for a while, and use a good filling primer on top of it.

[Argeo]

So that no shrink on the can is a bunch of bull?

Well. the only thing I am certain of right now is that I am glad I used a flat color. Should make for easier blending when everything slides or falls off in the future. Actually, if it only lasts a couple years I am throwing in the towel. Nuffsaid on that.

I washed thoroughly and let everything dry before I did any bondoing or primering. I even bought some stuff that I swear was just rubbing alcohol for $25 that for cleaning. Quick Prep or something like that.

I hope Mexico blue hides better than that slate blue I had.

You know, I forgot the mission I started with. My car was suppose to be based off a car I saw at Hershey last year. The car was not flawless but it was definitley the most memorable car there. It was just a really nice car to look at. Probably lots of cars there that were way more expensive but none as eye catching in my opinion. I believe it was there again this year. A white midyear car that was brought in as part of one of the dealer's displays. The guys were from one of the northern New England states. I think Proline was the name. Anyways, nice guys. Anyone have any pictures of the car?

Is it wrong to stop going for perfection? I just wanted a good looking car, not a concours car. I need to get back to the 90% rule. The other 10%, who needs them. I have a life I am missing.
Well, I am done whining, I do feel better. Thanks for listening. and all the help.

David

[dweymer]

David,

It is not wrong to stop the pursuit of perfection; but it sounds like you have done a good job through now. The topcoat data sheets should tell you what to sand the primer with, but 600 should be good. Any smoother and it may not bond/adhere well. The prep cleaners remove residual gunk/oil etc. before coating. They evap fast so you can tack then shoot. Have you painted a test panel first?

Don

[Argeo]

I haven't sprayed any of this paint yet. I did some touch up last year so I have sprayed before. I basically will just read the instructions on the can and go from there. I was thinking I would paint the back side of the hood first and proceed from there.

Unfortunatley with this car, it needed work on every panal so it has my stamp on every panel. To my untrained eye, they look great but it is just a wee bit nerve racking when I think about what it might look like after I apply the paint. Since I don't do this for a living, what I say looks great, a professional might say what was this guy thinking.

I think I will go back and find that post that someone did on what a lot of our cars really look like. It may help a bit.

90%, 90%, 90%...

[JeremyD]

As Carrera Cab said - depends on the primer - a epoxy hb primer you can get away with 400 - but will take more on the finish coat. 600 should get you to the 90+% rate pretty easily. Remember that your paint job will reflect 80% prep - 20% spray. Skimp on the prep and you better be an expert at laying down the paint.

I've never had the glazing shrink much - crack - yes - shrink - no - not really - use for anything structural - no way in he11.

[Argeo]

Alright, now knowing that 20% is the spray, if I have a friend paint (professional), how long should it take to put the paint and clear on in total. 1hr, 2hr, 3 hr... Not the sanding afterwards, just the spraying. Just curious if this is asking to much of someone to do as a favor. He would be using my stuff and my plasticized garage as a spray booth. I am working on the ventilation. I would rather not ask if it is going to take over 2 hrs.

[JeremyD]

Fenders off or on? hood off or on? glass out? already taped?

- you know - Thom has painted his car - maybe he can chime in - but my experience with cars - and boats - the ones I have done have been complete when painted is about an hour to 1 1/2. It's the best part of the job though cause it's instant gratification!

[Argeo]

Bumpers, glass and hoods off. Everything else off. Under 2hrs, that seems reasonable.

Thanks.