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Walt Fricke's Avatar
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 4,947
I was dubious about how well I could drill a hole which was centered on the joint between aluminum and steel, though I got some kind of hole in there, and used the shank of a broken drill bit as the rod.

But it occurred to me that if you screw your bolt, with a nut run on, in tight until it bottoms, and hold the top of the bolt while turning only the nut when trying to raise the plug, the plug isn't apt to rotate. Instead of a washer, I use a scrap piece of 1/8" or so steel with a hole in it, hacked off to fit the area. I use 5mm (8mm wrench) nut and a hex head bolt. I cut the open end end off an 8mm combination wrench, and heated and bent the closed end 90 degrees. I pressed the stem at the cut off end into a suitable spare 1/4' socket. I was going to weld it in, but it fit the flats so well that was not needed. This tool is the same L shape with socket head as the one I made from a 13mm wrench to deal with the distributor adjustment nut.

Works great.

I tried pounding on the head of the 5mm bolt to knock the plug down, but that bent the bolt. So I take the assembly out for knocking. I found a punch which was just right - too large and it hits the aluminum around the recessed plug. To small, and you risk buggering up the top of your threaded hole.

But really, nobody should futz around with this stuff without a control pressure tester. I've had my JCW one for about 30 years, and it still works fine. You could easily make your own, but the fitting are really hard to find, and a decent tester comes with a variety of adapters.

I can use a regular 8mm wrench to hold the bolt head, after I slip the tool over it and down on the nut.
Old 07-21-2017, 04:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
Registered User
oneblueyedog's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 989
Wow. Going back down memory lane here. Get an alert that people are still trying this. Knocking the plug on my second WUR equalled cracking the heating element ceramic in it for me. Rendered it useless but I did not give up. I bought a VW Jetta WUR and scavenged the element out of it and installed it in the 911SC WUR. Then set the pressures with a c clamp.

Lasted for years until I sold it.

I think I have the old original WUR modded the Tindel way somewhere. Make anyone a good deal. It's for a 78 911SC.
Old 07-21-2017, 07:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
San Ramon, CA
eastbay's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 491
I'll pile on this old thread to say thanks for the WUR mod info. I resisted doing this for a long time, but once done all my CIS cold start issues are solved. I did have to chuck the pin in my drill and sand it down a touch to make it movable. There was no issue drilling half way into the pin and body, both are equally soft. Used a roll pin like the drawing and just a bolt thread instead of an allen head. I initially set the pin down about an 1/8" and the formerly hard and difficult cold start just fired right up instantly. Per John Walkers suggestion I just raised the pin in small increments with the electrical plug disconnected until it ran right.

Everyone loves pics
Old 10-04-2017, 09:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,277
Nice !
What's a "bolt thread" ?
I can't afford that.
Old 10-04-2017, 10:33 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
San Ramon, CA
eastbay's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 491
LOL, like a threaded rod except I cut the head off.
I didn't want the hex or allen head in the way.

Last edited by eastbay; 10-05-2017 at 12:51 PM..
Old 10-05-2017, 12:47 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #45 (permalink)

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