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Fixing problems in the clearcoat???
I'm not quite the painting expert, but I am a DIY guy. I've started painting my whale tail, but i messed up in the clearcoat. The are several runs, and bits of dust and particles in the clear. What are the right steps do take them out and to apply more coats of clear???
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www.autobody101.com
great site to read up. |
wait until it's dry and wet sand the runs out and recoat.
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When I wet sand, it leaves a dull finish, wont that show up in the respray. Oh and what grit should I use for this?
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There is a window of opportunity after you wet sand the first coats of clear to apply additional ones over and retain a clear finish. Don't wait too long.
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depends on what paint you used, but it must be dry. I mean really dry. Yes it will show dull as you are sanding material off. I would just hit it with 400 wet first then when the drip is gone retopcoat it again with the clear. The "haze" will disappear.
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I am in the same stage as you are right now but with an entire car. Harlan is spot on when he says dont wait too long. Get it done within the first 3 days of clear. If you dont its not the end of the world but if you used a good urethane clear then you will have your work cut out for you. It will just take a little longer.
If you put enough clear on the first run you should not have to respray. On the heavy run areas I would use 400 and a block of proper size. Be sure not to sand the surrounding area and only use 400 to cut the run out. This may be too aggressive for someone new to paintwork so by all means use the paper you are most comfortable with. After this if you dont need to respray you should be able to step up to 1000 grit, then 1500, and finally 2000. This sounds like a lot more hassle than it really is. When you are done polish with a micro polish or even a chemical cutting agent can be used. Ask your local paint supplier what you should use. I recommend 3M products with a 3M "Superbuff" wheel on a 1500 RPM buffer and make sure you get a double sided pad if you intend to get into any tough areas ie between the mirror and the door. Hope this helps you. Let me know if you need product specifics and I can get them for you. .................................................. .....C:) |
I'm an old laquer guy..so I bow to the authorities on the new stuff. Good luck.
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One more helpful hint,
You can dry sand the run and this does work very well because you can more quickly see your progress. However be VERY and I mean VERY CAREFUL not to let the paper clog up. If this happens then you will tear or burn the equivilant of about a 36 grit line in your work. After you get the run leveled out then go to wet sanding and finish sand as mentioned above. Again, If this is something you are not comfortable with then just wet sand but be sure to wipe it dry and see where you are at once in a while. .................................................C |
Try wet sanding out the run so it is level with the rest of the clearcoat and afterward try buffing the area that you wet sanded. You may not have to respray if you didn't remove the clearcoat completely.
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Cool thanks guys I'll get right to working on it. If the whole thing comes out nice ill post a pics of it to show it off.
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