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Ride height question

I've been thinking about lowering my car to Euro or a tad lower and took some measurements last night to the wheel arches and this is what I came up with.
Pass R- 26" Drivers R- 25.25" Pass F- 25.75" Drivers F- 25.5"

I am reading that euro heights are 25"-Rear and 25.5"-Front
Everything is pretty close to those heights except the Pass rear at 26". Can I drop that side 1" with the eccentric adjuster alone and avoid the dreaded TB re-indexing? The fronts should be a snap. Seems as if the car may have been lowered by the PO or does the car just sag with age? It has a little over 100K on her.
Also is it odd to have .75" difference between rears?. Never been hit as far as I know.

Thanks guy's

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Old 07-20-2005, 11:32 AM
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not unusual to sag with that mileage, also the body has a tendency to rack after repeated track use.

indexing is not that bad.

difference in rear will probably be greater with the driver in the seat.

start with the biggest difference, take for a ride, re-measure.

when you adjust the rears, the front will also change, so take
your time.

if you run out of adjustment in the fronts, you can back the adjuster all the way out and remover the end cap and re-index that.

also, the lower you go, the softer the spring rates.

I've got the fronts at 24 1/4 and the rears at 24 3/8, (16x6 fuchs, 205/55/16 Michelin Cups)
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Old 07-20-2005, 11:47 AM
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Thanks for the advice, will do this.
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Old 07-20-2005, 12:02 PM
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Any sag will be a function of weight, age and abuse. Any former high school cheerleader will be able to confirm this.

When you set your ride heights, put some ballast in the driver's to similate your weight.
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Old 07-20-2005, 01:32 PM
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make sure the surface the car is sitting on is perfectly level. Otherwise your measurements will be off, just like your are.
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Old 07-20-2005, 01:58 PM
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Did you know the diagonal wheel might have an effect on the other?

To make sure you're not adjusting the wrong corner and exacerbating the difference, jack one end off the ground (from the middle) and measure both sides that are on the ground. Correct the ends first so they don't affect the diagonal wheels.

There are several hundred threads on this subject: "corner balancing". Look for one that has the word "tripod" in it.

Sherwood
Old 07-20-2005, 02:10 PM
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Great info guy's. I have a good starting point. Are the heights I listed above typical for sag on a car with my mileage? I'm trying to figure out if the car was lowered in the past although if it was I would presume that it wouldn't get higher with time like to 26" on one rear corner. I will follow the input about setting the height on each end first. Is it possible to drop a rear corner by about an inch using just the concentric?

Thanks again
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Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand!
Gordon Ost

'85 Carrera Cab
'01 Durango 5.9 R/T
'00 Taurus SE- SO's canoe
'97 KTM 250EXC
FOND MEMORIES:
'68 Pont Ventura Conv 389w/trips
'99 BMW 323is
'71 TR-6 very first car
'73 TR-6 restored it-Concours winner
'67 Lincoln Conti-suicide doors
'70 Challenger-340-6pack slap stk
'69 Dart GTS 440-4bl-4spd
'73 Moto Guzzi Eldorado
Old 07-20-2005, 07:28 PM
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One other thought is if your parked on a slightly unlevel area with your parking brake on I found that sometimes with a slight roll back one side may grab before the other causing a slight tilt from one side to the other, park with level ground and only in gear then measure again. just my 0.02$
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Old 07-20-2005, 09:56 PM
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you might be able to equalize the rear using the concentric by up-ing one and dropping the other, but I would not try to go the whole diff by max-ing out one side
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Old 07-21-2005, 03:18 AM
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Look into tri-pod method of corner balance. You definitnely don't want to throw the corner weights off. Plan to do two at a time. Even then without a corner balance, you won't be sure that you got things right.

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Old 07-21-2005, 05:14 AM
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