CV Boot Replacement
 

After reading through a number of posts on the board I have decided to go ahead and replace the CV boots on my 83SC. I noticed one on them has a small tear and grease is starting to get sprayed up underneath the car.

This will be my first DIY job on the car. :rolleyes: Most of the posts indicate that its not a very hard job, but is very messy. I will replace all the boots and repack the joints with new grease.

I think I need the following tools for the job

Torque Wrench (will torque bolts to 36 ft-lb)
6 mm hex to remove bolts

Some of the diagrams show a cir-clip. Will I need a cir-clip remover???? :confused:

Please let me know if I have forgot anything. I will keep you posted on my progress. SmileWavy

get some rubber surgical gloves, too..i can't remember the circlip, or if it was a problem or not, but i know that i don't have a 'circlip remover'..so if i did this i obviously didn;t a remover. think you will need the new thin paper gaskets. i think our host sells them too. good luck, damo.
ryan

You will need a circlip remover. One holds each CV joint on the axle.

-Mac

several pairs of good surgical gloves
good hi-temp CV grease (like Sparco)
2 boots, 2 paper gaskets
cleaning solution if you are going to flush the CV bearings and repack
I used Brakecleen and hot water to clean. I repacked them by putting grease in a sandwich ziplock, cutting a corner off and using it like a pastry decorator. It worked well and not too messy.
A medium size cir-clip removal plier will make the job much faster. The circlips should be pretty tight and not easy to remove. If they come off easy, replace them.

Grab a circlip remover... they're a biach when greasy. Also, wear eye protection, the circlips (if in good condition) can unload off the pliers at a hell of a speed!

I've always had to whack the CV on the axle to install the circlip with a large socket. Tight coming off. Very tight going on.

You don't need to remove the CV joints for most types of service to the joints/boots etc. If you do remove the CV joint assembly:

Wear glasses when you remove the circlip. A small flat blade screwdriver is good to help wedge it up. It CAN be done w/o circlip pliers but you will be a lot happier if you use them. As the clip comes up, put your hand over it to prevent from bouncing into a black hole somewhere in your garage... clean up first so it is easier to find it after it goes past your hand.

If you are really good, pluck it out of mid-air with a pair of chopsticks as it sails past your face. If you do that, no swordsman will challenge you...

here are some good posts.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=219001&highlight=axel+shaf t

It's messy but it's pretty easy. I STRONGLY suggest you get an old Bentley manual of nearly any kind where the car has CV joints. Or find Warren's post of the scanned pages from his. I have an older Rabbit Bentley. The pages I am talking about are the best description, complete with excellent photos, of how to disassemble a CV joint and reassemble. It's a snap, and if you have these images with you, it'll be very easy for you. Cleaning them without disassembling is difficult. Disassembling is easy, but there's a trick to it.

Also, you can reverse them. Keep track of where they were on the car and when you reinstall, put the passenger-side ones on the driver's side and vice versa. This will cause the joints to handle pressure on new race surfaces. You will probably find some wear on them, and maybe they need replacing, but reversing them can also help.

And I thought I was the only one able to do this. :D

You probably are ... in modern times.

(FWIW, the reference is to a man that legend has it was the greatest swordsman in all of Japan, Musashi. After a while, he stopped using a sword and just killed his opponents with a wooden sword.)

That's me... I use a wooden wrench now. :D

Thanks for all the info guys. A couple of people have mentioned that I will need paper gaskets.

Where do these go?

Can seem to find them on Pelican?

on the end of the CV joint, where it mounts - Pel definitely has them. use a couple dabs of grease to stick them on

Now that's comedy, LOL.


I'm actually familiar with Mushashi Miyamoto, from another hobby. The wooden sword thing was early on in his career, supposedly. He typically used two steel swords most of the time. Who knows where truth ends and legend begins.

Are the gaskets folks are using the slimline, no hole, stick on version or are there some with holes still available, which I find much easier to install.

Cant find the paper gaskets on Pel. Can anyone find them?

Clear up a couple peices of info - you'll need 4 gaskets per axel, not 2. There is a gasket between each boot and the CV joint and between each CV joint and the transmission/trailing arm flange. PP sells them, they are listed right with the CV joints in the Suspension and Bearings section as "911 CV Joint Gasket", I-332-297-00 $1.65.

No need to put grease on them to hold them in place, either. These gaskets have an adhesive back to them. Peel off the paper and stick the gasket either to the flance or the boot, depending on where its going.

My 1970 car requires 2 gaskets per axle; I didn't know about the extra gaskets for the newer cars. Anyway, I was going to suggest buying extra gaskets. If you slip, they are easy to tear. Then you have to stop and wait for the mail again.

yes some have the adhesive backing, but other do not. What controls which ones you get, I do not know.
and you do need 4 each time you pull both shafts off.

yes some have the adhesive backing, but other do not. What controls which ones you get, I do not know.
and you do need 4 each time you pull both shafts off -- ie the 2 posts above are in disagreement - 2 per axle (1 for each attachment), 4 for both axles

You don't need 4 gaskets to pull the shaft off, but you do need 4 per axel when replacing boots. I did this procedure 3 weeks ago. I did not just replace the entire axel shaft with a new one (which would only have required 2 gaskets per side), but replaced the boots on my old axels, and can tell you from personal experience - there is one gasket between each boot and the CV, and one gasket between each CV and where it mated to the car - 2 gaskets per CV joint x 2 joints per axel x 2 axels per car = 8 gaskets total for cars with the older style 100mm CV joints like that of SCs and early (pre 85.5) Carreras.

BTW, this is a good time to replace the CV joint bolts, esp if you plan to track the car. They're cheap - about $1 each. Make sure you get the right ones - they need to be grade 12.8.

There is and was no gasket between the boot and the CV on mine...

Have they perhaps changed btw the old (pre Carrera) and post Carrera cars?

Here's a picture taken during my CV boot replacement. My axels are the 100mm type where the boots have a metal flange integrated into them. This is the style from (I think) late 74 to mid 85. The red arrows point to the two locations where the gaskets go. I don't have a picture, but the flange on the boot is machined out for the gasket, just like the flanges on the transmission and the stub axel in the car are.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116380010.jpg

Looking at the boots I have there is a recess at the rear of the boot that would allow the gasket to be inserted.

I will post a pic when I get home of the boot.

Thanks for the info Chris.

I think a '69 would need the gaskets (they are often left off by hacks). Either check the Pelican catalog or PET to be sure. Or start a new thread with that specifc question.


Note that people are a bit at cross purposes above - some posts relate to cars where you don't have to remove the wheel axles, and some to where you do (all Carreras? some?)

I don't use CV to hub gaskets.

Bet you're glad you asked now Damo :D

Ron, you... you... hack!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

SmileWavy

Here is the new CV boot and you can see the recess that will mate up with the CV Joint.

It will be interesting to see if there are any gaskets on this interface when I get it off.

There are sooooo many different opinions on how many gaskets and where they go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116405252.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116405275.jpg

Here is a pic of the individual at the centre of this post

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116405392.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116405409.jpg

"There are sooooo many different opinions on how many gaskets and where they go."

- It's simple -- do it the way the factory sez - use the manual, Bentley, PET, or the Pelican diagram in the online catalog.
You can get away w/o a gasket (see above) - I've done it... for a while. I wouldn't put 2 where 1 shold be tho.

Just trying to clear my good name here. (I'm not a hack, really!)

I searched through our host's catalog for the cars up to 1989, and they only indicated 2 gaskets per axle, with no mention of a gasket between the boot and the flange. My Haynes repair manual makes no mention of these two other gaskets, either. What's the deal?

I've seent he same thing everywhere, too - everyone mentions 2 gaskets per axel. I think that's because common wisdom is to replace the entire axel, not just the boots (the PET manuals I have don't even show the components of the axel).

But, when I pulled my factory original ones apart, there were in fact 4 gaskets per side, as I've mentioned before. This was a fun lesson to learn in the middle of the job as I had only ordered 4 gaskets to do the job - had to get the other 4 from a local mechanic I know.

the real deal from Porsche "Parts and Technical Reference Catalog" 12/95

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116465890.jpg

It's a good idea to replace all of the CV bolts and Schnoor washers. You can buy them in bulk from Metric MultiStandard and easily sell the extras to other board members.
Item # 912, Socket Head Cap Screw 8X50 Grade 12
Item # 912, Socket Head Cap Screw S8

Pelican catalog says early 85 is 8mm and late 85 is 10mm but the picture of the boot looks like 8mm.

Managed to get the bolts off on the wheel side.

Only managed to get 1 bolt off on the transmission side. The remaining 5 bolts have semi rounded hex nuts. :mad:

any suggestions on getting the remaining 5 off. This job is becoming a serious PITA. :mad: