Spring Wake Up: Which Oil to use, brand and weight?

[sethhirschel]

I'm about to do a value adjust and will be replacing plugs, filters and oil at same time.

I'm driving an 86 Carerra with 150k miles on it - not running synthetic now, so i don't see the point of switching to it.

What do you guys recommend in terms of brand and weight? I'm in Connecticut and will drive th car mostly during the summer and then lay it up in the fall in my garage.

I'm looking for practical and effective, not expensive

Assuming I should buy 10 quarts?

Is it worth changing any other fluids at the same time?

Seth

[MotoSook]

Here we go again...but I use Castrol 20/50 (about $18/case at my Farm and Fleet...might not have those in your state). Valvoline is the other brand I would use.

[rhk109]

I used to run Valvoline racing 20W50. This year I switched to Mobil1 15W50. Believe it or not, but now I actually have less oil leaks. Go figure.

Buy at least 12 quarts.

Change the transmission gear oil if you haven't replaced it in the last two years. The only way to go there is with Swepco 201.

[ruf-porsche]

What ever on sale at Walmart or Kmart in the 20 50 weight.

[rfuerst911sc]

I like Kendall,Valvoline and Shell but any major brand oil will be fine. I would also recommend tranny fluid and brake fluid flush.

[B D]

Any oil with a high zinc percentage is best, supposedly this is the element that helps reduce friction on metal on metal contact. The cheapest and most widely available oil with a high zinc content is Chevron Motor oil $20 a case. Valvoline Racing has the highest percentage of any common oils around.

If you have not done it before or lately clean the sump screen. I'll second the brake and trans fluid replacement. Just make sure the fill plug on the trans comes off first.

[gduke]

Royal Purple Racing 41.

[cnavarro]

All the suggestions that have been offered are great. My recommendation is to spend the money on a Mobil 1 filter, as a cheap filter is the weak link. If you run synthetic, go with an extended interval and change the filter often.

[fastpat]

Originally posted by sethhirschel
I'm about to do a value adjust and will be replacing plugs, filters and oil at same time.

I'm driving an 86 Carerra with 150k miles on it - not running synthetic now, so i don't see the point of switching to it.

What do you guys recommend in terms of brand and weight? I'm in Connecticut and will drive th car mostly during the summer and then lay it up in the fall in my garage.

I'm looking for practical and effective, not expensive

Assuming I should buy 10 quarts?

Is it worth changing any other fluids at the same time?

Seth

I won't make a recommendation about oil, but I will tell you what I use.

I'm using Castrol Syntec 5W-50 in my '88 Carrera with 25k miles on it. this decision is based on the wide temperature range experienced by an aircooled engine, and the temperature breakdown resistance of synthetic oil. Alternatively, if I couldn't find 5W-50 Syntec, I'd use their 20W-50, which I'd not have the slightest reservation about mixing with their wider grade range oil.

I'd consider Redline brand, Mobil One, and perhaps others; I chose Castrol Syntec because it's widely available, and very cost effective for synthetic.

Castrol's oil grade web page. explains the different grades and their purposes.

Here's a small excerpt from their page:

SAE 5W-50:
Provides the widest range of protection available. SAE 5W-50 delivers exceptional cold temperature pumpability for rapid oil circulation at start-up and provides a thick oil film for ultimate wear protection. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and meets the engine protection requirements of GM4718M ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.


SAE 20W-50:
Provides superior oil film strength and extreme high temperature protection. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils. Also meets Japanese valve train wear and the engine protection requirements of Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz.

[Brother]

Originally posted by cnavarro
All the suggestions that have been offered are great. My recommendation is to spend the money on a Mobil 1 filter, as a cheap filter is the weak link. If you run synthetic, go with an extended interval and change the filter often.

Major Ditto here.

FWIW, i run Amsoil 20W50 -- Daily driver in South Texas.

[1yearonLy]

Originally posted by cnavarro
If you run synthetic, go with an extended interval and change the filter often.

What would the extended interval be if using synthetic??? Miles/Months?

Thanks.

[JBO]

I was recently told by a few engine builders (recently rebuilt engine) NOT to use Castrol or Pennzoil - low zinc content and crummy detergent-though that's what my rebuilder put in (20/50) for breakin. They said Kendall, Valvoline or Mobil 1 for a widely avail synthetic. I have switched to Mobil 1.

[cnavarro]

A few years ago I called Royal Purple for their recommended drain interval and they quoted 1 yr or 15,000 miles with oil filter changes between 3000 and 7500 miles, depending on the size of the filter. I personally like to change my filters every 3-4k miles and do a drain between 10k and 15k miles, depending on my driving habits. On both my wife's audi and my honda I do 10k intervals with no filter changes, although I do opt for a mobil 1 filter that seems to do a good job filtering for that long of an interval.

[fastpat]

Originally posted by JBO
I was recently told by a few engine builders (recently rebuilt engine) NOT to use Castrol or Pennzoil - low zinc content and crummy detergent-though that's what my rebuilder put in (20/50) for breakin. They said Kendall, Valvoline or Mobil 1 for a widely avail synthetic. I have switched to Mobil 1.

You use the certifications as judging aids. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils. Also meets Japanese valve train wear and the engine protection requirements of Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz. Those aren't rumors.

[JBO]

Yes, and I'm familiar with the Consumer Reports taxi test using dino oil (though those engines had few cold starts, from what I understand). Meeting the specified standard does not make it better, as all of the big name oils meet those standards. And Redline/Amsoil "might" be better than Mobil 1, as they are ester based. The people who advised me on oils, Steve Weiner and Pete Zimmerman (Rennlist tech advisors) have torn down numerous engines, and both said they saw deposits/clogged spray bars, etc with Castrol. I should also point out that they were talking about the GTX, not Syntec. However, some folks go 300k or more always using Castrol GTX, so go figure. You have to make your own decision, but I have followed their advice, as I know they are more knowledgeable than me

[cnavarro]

One small note I should offer is that if you switch to a synthetic from a dino oil, replace the filter fairly soon after, say 1,000-2,000 miles, since the synthetic cleans out all the gunk from how many countless decades of buildup and the filter tends to get filled up quicker, hence more particulates remain in suspension in the oil and not ending up in the filter.

[JBO]

Charles is exactly right, and as I understand it this is one of the benefits of synthetic - they keep the engine innards and oil passages clean. That is also why if you have a tired, gunked up engine, you may get leaks when the gunk is cleaned out. The synthetics do not "cause" leaks.

[PorscheG]

Castrol Syntetic Blend 20W/50. It is recomendation for P-cars by castrol

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

I suspect the "Mobil 1 filter" is marketing hype--a Purolater or Fram or whatever with a fancy decal. What on earth does the blending of synthetic oil have to do with the manufacturing of oil filters, which Mobil doesn't even do? they just sub out that job and put their label on it. I like Mobil 1 oil, but I also like Mahle filters.

Stephan

[bigchillcar]

i run castro 10w40 in the winter months..castrol 20w50 in the summer..daily driver.
ryan