HELP!!! Quick!

[gost]

I was just under the car and took off the valve covers to address the head leak issue I posted on earlier.
So the response was broken studs or loose nuts so the instructions was to check and re-torque if required. The engine is still in the car by the way. I locate the head bolts and notice in Bentley that 6 of them are behind the rocker shaft/arm and can't be reached without removing the shaft/arm which seems like that can't be removed without droping the engine and removing the timing cases. Holy smokes don't tell me I'm right!
Bentley shows a total of 18 bolts but the factory manual say's 24.
What the who? All the others are easily accessible. What do I do about the 2 (on the head thats leaking anyway) that are behind the rocker. Also in the Factory manual it said all Carrera engines 84 and up to torque using the method of by degrees of turn 2 stage tightening. Stage 1=11ftlb (that's all?) stage 2: 1x 90 degrees +or - 2 degrees in sequence. OK I have not a clue what this is. Any help is urgently appreciated. I'm under the car right now.

Muchas, muchas gracias

Gost

[MotoSook]

Gordon,

The headstud barrel nuts are not to be confused with the cambox-to-head nuts. There are 24 barrel nuts...4 studs per cylinder. You should not need to retoquing the barrel nuts...you should be checking them to make sure that you don't have any loose nuts or broken studs.

[MotoSook]

See the arrows...

[gost]

So the barrel nuts beneath the rockers are not head nuts? If I check for broken or loose studs/nuts and none are found then what caused the obvious leak and what is the next step to addressing it?

Thanks Souk

[MotoSook]

Gordon, I went back to your other thread and posted...

Anyhow, you have a poor head to cylinder seal, which I hope is just loose barrel nuts. Check them and report back...

[gost]

I am still confused. The diag you just sent shows 8 bolts with arrows. I know there are 4 more not in view correct? Those are the head bolts? Total of 12? I only see 18 nuts on my heads as Bentley shows and instructs when removing your heads. I apologize but I don't follow you.
Can you clarify a bit?

Thanks

[gost]

OK I'll check it out!

[MotoSook]

The picture doesn't capture all the nuts in the view....but they are there. I only pointed to the ones in that are in view.

[gost]

Off I go. Fingers crossed. I'll report shortly.

Thanks

[gost]

Whew! They are all tight!! Had to manuf a 10mm hex socket (can't believe I didn't have one) out of a hex key and socket first. So, now that there are no broken studs, do I crack the effected cylinders bolts and re-torque them or what's the correct protocol at this point?
By the way does anyone know the torquing method of degrees by turn and can give an explanation?
Is it to torque to 11 ft/lbs and then continue 90 degrees as in a right angle..give or take 2 degrees?

Appreciate the help.

[john walker's workshop]

if they are tight, leave them alone.

[gost]

Hi John, That's what I wish to do but there still is that leak that's going to dirty things up and can't it cause damage to the head and/or cylinder? What are the options in this case? I'd hate to leave it like it is. What's the drawback to re-torquing that head?