bump

A difference of 15 degrees should not make the difference between starting and not starting. If it's a mixture thing, this variation in temperature may cause rough running, but not a comlete no-start. Your problem could be more of a function of how the car was driven and how hot it got prior to the no-start. Your starting attempts in the morning, may have just primed the system for you re-attempt in the evening.

This may be purely a waste of time, but next time it won't start after you've given it a good hot drive, try opening up the CIS air box, pull out the air filter and find the CIS metering plate. Lift this until you hear the injectors start to sing. If it takes a second or two for this to happen, you're bleeding air out of the system ,which is the reason for your no-start. If they sing immediately, then you're not having a problem with air in the lines.

After the injectors are primed, try starting again and see if this changes anything.

Chris
the car always starts when it is hot . It is only after it has sat for 4 plus hours with lower ambient temperatures. I tried it this morning at 7 am and 62 degrees with no start and will try it tonight at 6pm and the temperature will be 85 degrees and it will probably start right up! I only turned the key a couple of times this am so I don't think that will have a material effect on tonight. Sometime in the next couple of weeks I am going to wait for a hot afternoon and drive this over to my old mechanic and get the mixture checked . I want to have this resolved by the fall , cause outside of a few nice days here in DC it's too bloody hot to operate an oil cooled car when you are in a monkey suit everyday.
This really does suck tho , cause I like late drives and early mornings as well .
Connections to the thermotine look good . I had the tensioners updated before I picked this car up , maybe the mechanic damaged the thermotine?

Try the bleeding experiment anyways. Some of the hot start issues don't appear until after prolonged periods of time.

It is possible though that it its the Thermotime switch not firing the CSV. You can jumper the Red/black wire on the thermotime to a ground and this will allow the cold start injector to fire all the time when you crank the car. Give this a shot, but don't leave it jumpered and crank endlessly otherwise you'll flood it.

Chris
I would like to try that . How would I do it . I realize that I need to start knowing how to check CIS and Electric but I am a neophyte in these areas , though willing to learn!

Show me the way!

Bob,

It's very simple. Just look at the thermotime switch. It's on the left chain box cover on your engine, just above the sheet metal. Search any of the parts catalogs, and you'll see what it looks like. It's very hard to miss. It has two wires coming out from it probably a red/black and a yellow/? wire. You just need to disconnect the red one, and use a scrap of wire to connect to the end of that wire, and then connect the other end of your wire to a ground. Alligator clips will make this easy, but you can do it with any wire scrap.

All the thermotime switch does is connect that red/black wire to ground when the car is cold and then open the circuit when the car is hot, or after you've been cranking for more than a few seconds. This just bypasses the switching function and will make it fire all the time. Note, that the injector only gets power to fire when you are cranking, so it's not like leaving this wire in place when the car is running will change how the car runs; just how it starts.

Try starting again. Just be careful not to leave this in place for too long if you're cranking for a prolonged period of time. This could cause you to get a fuel buildup in your airbox and cause a big bang (do you have a popoff valve?).

Good luck.