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Airbrush suggestions
I need an airbrush. I don't want to spend a fortune, but would like a decent one. I need one that does more than just spray a pencil-thin line.
Suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, guys.
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Seems like many RC hobby stores carry these for small jobs. What are you painting if I may ask?
http://www.hobbypeople.net/guru/kws_627579473.asp
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Paasche H
Testor Aztek Some of my airplane modeling buddies swear by the Iwata. I have experience with the Paasche H ( nice and simple) and the Testor Aztek ( you can buy it at WalMart!) . Stay away from the cheap Badger clones they sell at Harbor Freight. Gene
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MAGA
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Scott, Harbor Freight has them for about $10. Buy a couple in case one takes a duke in the middle of a job. I have thrown away a $40 airbrush and a $10 dollar one in the past. The cheapos work just as good as medium priced ones. I have touched up quite a few quarter size spots on various vehicles w/out having to mask the whole car (you will have to thin typical auto paint a little more than usual and spray multiple coats). They put out very minimal over spray. They can clog easily though (buy two) so clean often and quickly after use.
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I have the Paasche VLS Double action brush. I've used a few times and I like. However, I thought it would be a good tool for touch-ups. I think a detail gun would be better suited.
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Tim: A question...on the HF units (specifically model 1500-4VGA), can I adjust the spray pattern from very small (pencil line) to wider (at least an inch or two)?
Gene-o: I don't want to spend a ton of money, so the HF "disposable" units might be attractive. How much is the Testor's kit? Thanks, guys.
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Go to Michaels and ask for a Pro start-up air airbrush ($200) w/air comp.
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Testors are $50-$60 at least the ones I have seen.
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Quote:
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Scott, I am local in SoCal and am an airbrush artist. I have a complete set up if you would like to learn a little bit. I have tried the majority of airbrushes and must say that Iwata is the best. I have a few different types including Thayer and Chandler as well. They are very good for thick paint like waterbased acrylics. If you are looking to shoot finer pigmented paints, inks, or urethanes, Iwata is the way to go. There are several models, but I prefer the HP-C.
If you buy one from HF, you will surely be dissappointed. The atomization is very poor and the lines will not be consistent. Send me an email or PM if you want to get together, David
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fancytown
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I have a Paasche VLS also. it's a versatile airbrush. It's a nice airbrush. Just make sure you have clean dry air. It makes all the difference.
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Recently purchased one.
I bought a Paasche model to dye my seats. It came with three size nozzles. They can be adjusted from thin to wide spray. Wide meaning 2" or so. I think I paid about $75 for the set. If you use your air compressor, it will need a pressure regulator. I found maintaining a constant pressure makes the work more predictable.
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Can someone explain the difference between internal and external mix, and the advantages/disadvantages of each?
Thanks, guys. The information in this thread has been great!
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Quote:
http://www.librarium-online.com/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=9 Broken into several short pages and gives an overview of all the brush styles, options, pros/cons, etc. It's a good read. I bought a Badger double-action several years ago and have had great results with it. I believe I paid about $75 for it. I bought a used compressor and regulator off Ebay for about $40. That's about all you need, besides paint. If you decide to use compressed air in a can, you can put it in a pan of hot water and you'll get a lot better air pressure. If you only have a couple of small jobs to do, that would be cheaper than buying a compressor.
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Here is some info Scott....There are 2 types: single action and double action. In a single action gun, you control only the when the air shoots the paint through the gun. It is a basic design and is for beginners who do not want to spend the time to learn to use an airbrush. The better design is the double action gun. With this gun, you control when the air flows, AND the volume of paint. It gives you control over how thin or thick the line is. Also, you can control it precisely with your distance from the painted surface and air pressure.
Internal mixing airbrushes do just that. The paint and air are mixed within the body of the airbrush for atomization. External brushes do it in a cup or bottle. Internal is much better. There are also a variety of designs for paint mediums. Some have built in cups, other have removable cups, and others have removable bottles. The most comprehensive source for airbrush supplies and information is Coast Airbrush in Anaheim, CA Coast Airbrush. The owner is David Monnig and he is a great guy. If you plan on doing some serious work, your compressor should be regulated by air pressure and you must have an air trap. As the compressor heats up, it draws moisture into the tank and send it through the airbrush line. This moisture can ruin a work by splattering paint on the surface. I have a complete setup with a variety of brushes if you want to meet up. Someone also mentioned an Aztec airbrush. I had one of those for a while, but did not care for the design. It felt awkward and was difficult to clean. Let me know, David
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99 996 C4 11 Panamera 4S 83 SC Targa converted to a 964 cab (sold) 67 912 (sold) 58 Karmann Ghia choptop (traded for the 912) Last edited by DavidI; 03-15-2005 at 04:24 PM.. |
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nice info Dave.
I do a little shooting with a full gun and touch-up gun. I bought the Badger airbrush book, but not the brush. Now I know what to buy for my urethanes... thanks
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MAGA
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Scott, with the HF cheapo, I was able to put down about a 1/2" - 3/4" wide pattern max. Surely the pricey units are better. For what I mainly use airbrushes for (small patch jobs on fabric airplanes along with auto touch-up), the $10 on sale, more or less disposable HF units are perfect. They allow you to spray a small area without having to mask the vehicle. I put on multiple coats and come back later w/ 800-1500 grit sand paper then buffing compound. I was amazed at my results the first time I did this on a Pitts wing tip.
If you are only looking to do the same, why blow the dough on a good one? If you are looking to do some artistic type work, then surely the other guys advice is more relevant.
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German autos: '79 911 SC, '87 951, '03 330i, '08 Cayenne, '13 Cayenne 0% Liberal Men do not quit playing because they get old.... They get old because they quit playing. |
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MAGA
Join Date: May 2004
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Scott, with the HF cheapo, I was able to put down about a 1/2" - 3/4" wide pattern max. Surely the pricey units are better. For what I mainly use airbrushes for (small patch jobs on fabric airplanes along with auto touch-up), the $10 on sale, more or less disposable HF units are perfect. They allow you to spray a small area without having to mask the vehicle. I put on multiple coats and come back later w/ 800-1500 grit sand paper then buffing compound. I was amazed at my results the first time I did this on a scuffed Pitts wing tip.
If you are only looking to do the same, why blow the dough on a good one? If you are looking to do some artistic type work, then surely the other guys advice is more relevant.
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Quote:
The HF airbrushes aren't that bad for laying down solid colors. I tried to use an HF airbrush on a F-4 Phantom model and wasn't pleased with the results. The Aztek from Walmart will set you back about 35 bucks IIRC, but it will include everything you'll need but the compressor. The Walmart kit comes with the semi-useless propellant cans. Don't forget a moisture trap if you're spraying oil based paints, not a problem if you're spraying water based acrylics though. Gene
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Back to the other half of the equation. I would recommend buying/using a piston type compressor with tank. They are probably at the same price level as the traditional diaphram style. You'll get little to no pulsing with a tank (the bigger the tank the better). I believe I saw such a compressor for $80 at HD the other day. You can also use it for air nailers and staplers as a bunus.
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