Porsche Finish Restoration (Part 2) – Jan.2005

[glenncof]

See Part 1. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/307032-porsche-finish-restoration-part1-jan-2005-a.html#post2839848

Fine Polish

I used Mequiar’s Show Car Glaze (paintable, $9) as finer polish with perhaps a filler. Abrasiveness is maybe 2 out of 10. I used since I had to fix swirls on Tahoe’s black clear coat (worst combo). This is probably not the ‘best’ glaze to use here but it’s what I got. Always read instructions; work wet then remove (I allowed some setting time but not sufficient to dry). Use machine, probably a waste by hand

I did overlay sections; polish section then glaze previous, remove polish then glaze, remove previous glaze…did same with waxing process (except final coats on Porsche dried overnight). I would not overlay clean/polish with wax process when using single foam pad.

My conclusion on the Maq. Glaze was that it was not the best for this application. It did a wonderful job on the black clear coat swirls but didn’t last. I think the filler looked good but did not adhere over time.


Wax

I did a two step process. First step was a liquid Carnauba wax with orbital buffer, foam pad. I could use the same foam pad for all steps other than final wax. Applied it, buffed it with orbital, let dry completely, remove with terry cloth. Use one towel for each process (clean/polish and wax).

This step was intended to really bond the Carnauba wax to the clear coat (or paint). I selected Kit Carnauba Car Wax ($4) and found it had “micropolishing agents” after reading back label carefully. I never reconciled this with the use of the Glaze but the result were very good.

The second step was paste wax. I looked for a pure Carnauba wax and selected Meguiar’s Gold Class Paste Wax($10). It has a nice foam applicator in the can. This is good since it is greasy and I did not want to gum up my only orbital foam pad. This wax was applied by hand and removed with terry cloth. I suspect this is not 100% ‘pure’ wax and would consider Meq. #16 or Mothers wax (there are many others…S100 looks good).


Future

These vehicles were neglected but in reasonable shape. My intent was NOT to make my process perfect or get perfect results; 80% would do. Apparently wax lasts no more than 90 days so I will re-do process then.

I am considering replacing the Polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP, 6/10) and Final Polish (FP, 3/10 rating) and incorporating Klasse All-In-One (AIO). See www.properautocare.com/copoglcoch.html and www.properautocare.com/klasapguid.html. Klasse is a chemical, light cleaner/polish as opposed to abrasive and leaves acrylic finish (not good for painting). I’m considering this sequence for next time; DACP, IP, FP, AIO, and paste wax. This seems excessive though. I’ll also research more on foam pads before doing this and consider the wool for aggressive leveling.

Longer term I would consider a polymer sealant as wax substitute. Klasse Selant Glaze (SG) or Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection (UPP) in up to three layers sounds good but I want to go through the clean/polish sequence more frequently using wax first.

Convertible Top / Interior
I used RaggTop Cleaner/Protector combo from www.topoftheline.com as it is the only recommended by HAARTZ Corp., the producer of most canvas tops. Washed twice with cleaner then once over with carpet vacuum using water. Don’t dry with terry, too much lint.

Mequiar PlastiX to polish rear vinyl window and dash instruments, followed by Aerospace 303 UV protection (SPF40) on window which was also used on top of dash.

Wheels/Tires
I used Blue Magic Wheel/Mag Cleaner spray (had it, $5). Add toothbrush and brake dust melts away. For lasting shine I used Meguiar’s ‘High Gloss’ Endurance Tire Gel ($7) but was too shiny on tires so I wiped down to dull. Removed wheels to do touch-up and clean/polish (StrachX) paint around lug nuts. Turtle’s red Rubbing Compound worked well on brushed aluminum portion of rims.

Exterior Trim
I used Blue Magic Wheel/Mag. spray (onto toothbrush) to clean out cracks filled with dirt or wax and on all trim. Toothbrush in, wipe off with damp sponge, and towel dry … has no effect on wax surface. I hate wax residue in black trim.

Protect rubber trim after cleaning with Tire Gel, liked it shiny.

Tip: by a bag of foam cosmetic wedges ($3) for trim work.

Sun faded black plastic (not smooth finish) was stained with Kiwi Black Leather Dye (glass bottle, $4) and finished with tire gel. This process won’t likely have good effect on flat plastic. Black Again and Poorboy trim restorers look good for this, but I’ve not tried.

Plan to use Klasse AIO on black painted trim such as around windows and bumper on Range Rover.

Black mirrors housings: TBD

Glass
AIO can be used as window polish. Stoner’s Invisible Glass looks like the best spray cleaner.

Carpets
See http://www.detailcity.org/forums/ , will try Oxy Clean on Tahoe as it is BAD. Shout Gel for spots.



Results
Range Rover paint cleaner was Turtle Swirl Remover, not DACP, then touch up with BMW white paint (had it). I didn’t cut back the touch-up since it is single stage paint and polishing would level it over time. Results; Very shiny but could see random ripples (normal crinkles) in paint which need leveling next time with DACP.

Black Tahoe had major swirls from previous scratch removal with Turtle Rubbing Compound. Removed major swirls with ScratchX and used Turtle Swirl Remover for spot treatment. DACP followed by Glaze were used. Very shiny but paint could use more leveling. Paint looked good under shop light but fine spider webbing under sun light. As mentioned I believe the Glaze filler didn’t last.

Porsche paint was nearly leveled but needs either heavier cutting pad or compound or possible rotary buffing. I could see level areas where I wet sanded with 1000 grit but they were of course dulled by that and took lots of work to get back to normal. The process was fairly close to being developed though and maybe next time around it would be really good. Nice, deep glossy appearance achieved and met expectation. Some Porsche touch-up paint will be redone in critical areas with spray next round.

References:
http://www.detailcity.com/
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html
http://www.properautocare.com/detailingtips.html
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html
http://www.topoftheline.com/problemsolvers.html
www.meguiarsonline.com/forums
http://bettercarcare.com/
http://www.premiumautocare.com/
http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/prodtree?prodcat=Auto+products