Replacing Hi-beam/turn signal switch
 

It took all of 10 minutes to remove the steering wheel and old switch.

Now, I'm stuck because I can't figure out how to get to the wires that plug into the back of the main light pull switch. It has about 10 different spade connectors going into it. I can't really see or reach them all.

Need to drive this to work on Monday so i would really appreciate any help you could give.

Try a search. I did this in the past 6 months, and I found posts at the time, and I think I may have posted after I finished mine.

As to your specific question, you need to unscrew the main light pull switch, push it back and drop it down below the dash. Then you can see all the spade connectors.

Disconnect and reconnect the new ones one wire at a time - it is foolproof that way!

Awesome. I pulled the knob off and I didn't know if the piece would push out the back. It would be easier if I could that lower kneebar piece off, but I don't know how it connects.

Once the knob is off, you also have to unscrew the ring screw that holds it in the dash.

One the knob is off, you'll see the ring with two holes in it. There are special pliers that you can use to unscrew it. I just searched around my tools to find something that would work, and used a set of snap-ring pliers. Put the prongs into the holes, and unscrewed it.

If yours is not too tight, you could try using just about anything that will fit in the holes. A couple of nails, for example, would work if it's not too tight.

Mine was not very tight. Others have reported that theirs are screwed on REALLY tight. So you may either need a good tool, or some luck.

I don't think taking the lower kneebar off would help much. You still would need to take the knob out and drop it down, from what I saw. It would be hard to replace those wires with the switch still in place, kneebar or not.

Just finished. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to get that ring off. Awesome. That wasn't bad. I just need to do a little neatening of the wire bundles down there now.

Lessons learned.

1: Mark the spline position when you remove the steering wheel.
2: Disconnect the battery.
3: Use a magnetized flat head screwdriver.

Those things will help you do this in 15-30 minutes.

Total Cost:

New switch from Pelican - $135
Breaker Bar 1/2 drive - $20
27 MM deep socket -$6
Pelican BBS - Priceless
Bentley Manual - useless (yet again)

I have had this project on hold for about 1 month now...just need the time to dig in and do the repair. 15 - 30 min for this would be nice, but I have a feeling that Murphey will step in and make it a few hours.

Time for relays?

Seriously. As long as you don't take an extrememely long time taking off the steering wheel you won't have a problem. I couldn't figure out how to get the light switch out because the Bentley manual sucks. Pelican to the rescue again.

Two large wire bundles come off the switch and one loose wire does. The loose wire is a ground wire or maybe part of the horn. It goes on the back of a small plastic bit with a strip of copper across it. One bundle has a plug with 5 or 6 pins that plugs to the firewall, this also has a loose wire that goes to something going into the gauges. (probably the light that comes on when you turn the lights on. The Other bundle goes to the back of the light switch. There are about 10 wires going to this switch so you can't really get at it from under the dash. You'll have to push it out the back and then it will be much easier. 8 screws and one big bolt later and the steering wheel is back on.

again use the magnetic screwdriver to make things easier.

I have a used replacement assembly that was sent to me and it has all the wires and other bits you mention. I am going to use the auto skills center on the military base to do the work since the use of an impact wrench will make the removal of the steering wheel easier. Thanks for the tips.

cool. They need your 5 bucks.

I had no problem with a breaker bar and holding the wheel with my hands.

Good luck.

Oops.

It seems like everything works perfect except...

The little green light on the speedo that tells you your lights are on only comes on with the light switch in the first detent. It goes off with the lights fully on. Must have some wire loose.

Any ideas?

That's the way it is supposed to work, you don't have a problem.

Seriously? I never noticed before. Why is that?

Just to let you know the parking lights are on I guess.

Is it supposed to have a buzzer if you leave the lights on and pull the keys out?

If so, I don't have that either.