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				Caution on those set screws
			 
			
			Got a message back from BillyG at Frozenrotors (tm) ..he says: 
		
	
		
	
			
				"I would add one other caution to this modification. DO NOT tighten down those "mounting screws" more than finger tight using a dime as a screwdriver. Tight is not good at these points. Those screws are only there to keep the rotor from falling on your foot while you put on the caliper. The are not to be used as "positioning devices". If too tight, when you torque the lugs down they can crack the rotor from the screw inboard. Seen it many times" Also if you have your rare rear rotors frozen by BillyG they can last up to 3 times longer.... Bob  | 
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			Bob, that's a good point.  I suppose if you were really worried about that you could not bother with the holes.  They are only to hold the rotor to the hub, right?
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen ‘96 993 Carrera 2 Polarsilber '81 R65 Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13) Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02) Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04) Ex-'89 944 Turbo S (Sold 8/21/20)  | 
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			Yup, the set screws hold the disc in place while you bolt on the caliper. With the caliper mounted the disc can't fall off.  The set screws just hold the parts together so no gap or potential false tightening of the lug can occur. The lug nuts do the clamping and the drive force is from the hub>lugs>wheel.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	The disc is just along for the ride till it's needed for braking. Go back to those great looking adapters MJMoran posted for a look see. Bob  | 
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			Ahh, that makes sense.  I don't have any screws in my '71 race car, the corrosion holds the discs on nicely! (It's easy to get them off if a crack is detected before a session, the current record is about 25 minutes for a rotor change with help from Pelican JPachard.)
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen ‘96 993 Carrera 2 Polarsilber '81 R65 Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13) Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02) Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04) Ex-'89 944 Turbo S (Sold 8/21/20)  | 
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			Bump for an update in the new year
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Robert Currently Porsche less (but the wife has 2)  | 
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			If anyone is interested, I have a few sets still available for installing 3.2 Carrera calipers and rotors on a SWB car.  More info on the Early S thread http://www.early911sregistry.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9572&page=2 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			Price is $299.00 incl shipping to the lower US, or paypal for $310. let me know if you are interested. 
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	Michael PCA-INWR 356 Reg. Early S Reg. R Gruppe PNW  | 
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		 Quote: 
	
 While I personally would do without the set screw mod, the set screws also are used to properly set the handbrake. To get around this you would simply use 2 open face nuts to secure the rotor while you adjust the handbrake stars. Once all that is done... bolt on the wheels and let'er roll. 
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	Eric Shea - PMB Performance 855-STOP-101 We Restore Vintage Calipers www.pmbperformance.com  | 
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			I have a set also as I have decided to go in another direction with my car. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			If Michael has no objection they are for sale. 
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	Du must schwein haben '67 901/05 rebuilt 2.2 Bultaco Metralla 62 "XDina" '68 BMW R69S  | 
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			great info all...many thanks.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			JCF, 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			No problem for me...I only have a few left and there will probably not be too many more after that. If any people are interested in the brackets, between the one that JCF has and mine there may be about 3-4 left. If you have interest in up-converting your SWB car to newer brakes, this is it...great winter project and easily reversible if needed. 
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	Michael PCA-INWR 356 Reg. Early S Reg. R Gruppe PNW  | 
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				One more quicky...
			 
			
			BD,  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			The torq specs you list on page 1 are for M7 hardware. That is correct for the 911 "rear" calipers (although some 66 models had M6 hardware). I just want to make sure others aren't using that spec for the fronts which are M8 hardware (you had the front caliper info listed just above the torq specs.) For M8 hardware found on the Early M or Wide M-Caliper I use 10ftlb. for the initial spec and 25ftlb. for the final. 
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	Eric Shea - PMB Performance 855-STOP-101 We Restore Vintage Calipers www.pmbperformance.com  | 
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			Time to bring this thread back to life just in time for winter projects.  I have maybe 2 or 3 rear brake kits still available for those interested -- now featured in Excellence mag.  on a certain beautiful SWB car in Bend OR   
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			![]() Happy Turkey day to you all. Cheers, 
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	Michael PCA-INWR 356 Reg. Early S Reg. R Gruppe PNW  | 
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				rear brake upgrade
			 
			
			I have a 1966 912 solid rear rotors and I'm looking to upgrade. Are you still doing the rear brake upgrade kits?  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Fronts I just swapped to M Calipers with vented rotors direct bolt on. What other parts would I need? tim  | 
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		 Quote: 
	
 You will need Carrera calipers and rotors and a few other odd bits. 
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	Michael PCA-INWR 356 Reg. Early S Reg. R Gruppe PNW  | 
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				brake kit
			 
			
			I'm interested in a set. Does anyone have the details of what calipers, pads and rotors to use. Whats the year range of SC best used? Does anyone have any feedback on the install.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
				
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