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Gray-S-Man-06
 
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Engine and ngine bay Degrease

Anyone have any advice on how best to degrease engine and compartment? I'm thinking "Simple Green" but am open to other ideas. Best product and process is my ultimate goal ! My car is a 930 if that means anything......Thanks in advance for any responses.

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Old 06-16-2005, 11:07 AM
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I use Simple Green on my engine bay, and it works fine. It's really good at cutting dirt and grease.
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Matt
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:10 AM
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I thought we weren't supposed to use Simple Green on aluminium?
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:14 AM
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bumping it back up for more responses !
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:01 PM
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im looking to do the same... i am looking to clean-up under the decklid a bit,....... have no clue what to do..... parts to keep dry, etc etc...

do i just lift the decklid and start spraying? (i know not too, im trying to inspire responses!)

maybe a picture or two, that would really help out!
Old 06-16-2005, 12:41 PM
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I used a combo of Castrol Purple, the enviromental-unfriendly GUNK Engine Brite, and a 1600 psi power washer.
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:56 PM
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Beware of Castrol purple, the stuff is very strong and will strip anodization and haze paint. I've seen this happen on non porsche cleanings. I would reserve this for only the most greasy areas and not to leave it on long. Simple green with plenty of water works well on engines that are moderately dusty.
Old 06-16-2005, 02:14 PM
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The Air Natl. Guard does use Simple Green - HarryD researched this andposted here (see below). There was a years long rumor that a USAF TSB (or equivalent) said it eats AL so don't use it at all. That turns out to have been an exaggeration. They are always competing with the regular USAF, so that suggests one can use it. But don't leave it on for long.

98811 - has it right for Castrol Purple - be very careful.

IF the engine is out, then start with steam cleaner or the hottest water you can get run thru a pressure washer. Next, and "orange oil" cleaner - for covalent crap like grease. Then back to ionic crap... so use Simple Green or something like that - a strong detergent with TSP or similar.

Then you can go to the painter and impress him with how much work you did to get it clean for him - he'll use a chemical prep. as the final step. If you are not going to repaint, then be careful with pressure and strong solvents.

Keep the drained water out of the storm drains -- do this at a car wash that recycles their wash water.

If the engine is in you have to be careful of all the electrics. I would not use a pressure washer from the top at all.

many threads - search 'em up
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Last edited by randywebb; 06-16-2005 at 09:16 PM..
Old 06-16-2005, 02:37 PM
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Randy,

I posted the note about the Air Guard and Simple Green. You can find it here:

Simple Green
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Old 06-16-2005, 08:54 PM
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Thanks - I edited my post above.
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:13 PM
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I used something called "Dr.Mecanico" which is something similar to Simple Green. It is a degreaser type fluid but not harsh or damage the paint, chrome, aluminum, etc. Contains carnauba wax. Even is soft to your hands. Is very though to the grease.
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:55 PM
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Simple green all the way. Of course, if you leave anything on long enough, it will stain or corrode at some point. Put it on, rinse it off. Been using it for sometime and have always been satisfied with the results. Cheap, simple, efficient. What else do you want or need.
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Old 06-17-2005, 01:22 AM
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The 'orange oil' solvents are safer for you, for the car, and for the environment -- and will do a better job on oils/greases etc.

The procedure I gave above will get max. amount of cleanliness per unit effort and with the most safety.

Rule 1 -- hot water is great.
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:51 AM
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I used to think that "Simple Green" was great. I had an old VW Type IV engine that was pretty gunky, so I soaked it with Simple Green and took it down to a car wash. To make a long story short, sure it took off a lot of stuff. But what it left was virtually baked on. Near as I can tell, using something like Simple Green with a water wash (even high pressure and temperature)on thick dirty grease results in the grease breaking down and the top layer of dirt coming off. Deeper down though, the build-up becomes a virtual cement when the grease wicks out. After taking the motor apart, I had a heck of a time getting that stuff off in the parts washer using mineral spirits.

If you're going to remove really thick dirt and grease, skip the Simple Green and go straight to something like mineral spirits. The dirt and varnish for the most part just floats off. If you all you have is a light coat of oil and a little dirt, Simple Green is fine.

Now how to use a solvent like Mineral Spirits with the engine in place in the engine bay is a problem that I don't have a solution to yet.

Just my $0.02

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Old 06-17-2005, 12:46 PM
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