ignition switch (plus) ... plz tell me i did the right thing
 

the ignition switch blew out of my 1980 911 SC a couple weeks back. the PO and i went through as much as we could to diagnose the problem; so i ordered a new switch from PP and got it all to the wrench on friday of last week.
this morning the wrench calls and says that i got "half the parts you need."
:confused: :eek:
he said that the phillips-head looking gizmo coming off the mechanical stuff on the tumbler, the part that actually turns the ignition switch itself, sheared off as well.

DOH!!

after doing a search on the forums here and reading all the relevant stuff i could find, i finally opted to go ahead an bite the bullet----i ordered the mechanical portion of the ignition switch (tumbler, locking arm, etc) for a mere $404.

i've only had the car for three weeks now. even from day one the tumbler felt loosey-goosey on me. trying to start it with the master key was a joke because there was an inordinate amount of resistance. it would turn to ACC and ON just fine, but to start i had to use the valet key, none other would work (not enough leverage with that sexy little black key). thus, i've been kinda leery about this whole assembly to begin with.


words of wisdom from the p car gurus?

Your problem might be caused by the electrical part of the switch that is piggy-backed on the mechanical portion. See how the key operates with the electrical portion removed. If it works good, try turning the electrical switch with a screwdriver and see how that is. The bottom line is that if the electrical switch is not operating properly, it will make you think the mechanical portion of the ignition lock is at fault.

safecracker, i was hoping to get a response from you!! i saw all of the tips and advice you had posted in the past and it seems you know your stuff with this.
i can't try any of that at the moment as the car is still at the mechanic's place, not mine. he's replaced this before on 911's.
the key would still turn just fine when i still had it at home; it's actually that little nub that fits into the electrical part that is piggy-backed--the mechanic said that part got broken off. thus, as far i understand, it may not have been the electrical part at all and only this small portion of the mechanics of the switch. i didn't have the confidence to start taking that apart by myself (nor the tools....yet), so i can't be for certain. i guess i'll just have to go with whay my mechanic is telling me for now.

you'll have to bear with me, i'm a total newb to p cars and am trying to learn the lingo.
regardless, i ordered the parts and will get an entirely new assembly put in here soon enough. let's hope i'll never have to address this again, eh?
thanks for the tip though!!

does this work add anything significantly extra to the labor? most wrenches aren't going to add charges for parts bought..i would think a wrench would more likely pad work in the labor, if that's what you're wondering about..anyway, it sounds reasonable to me..that price sucks though..think i might have shopped a little if i had the time and had the tumblers on a relacement matched to my old key..ouch..
ryan