Clutch Help Please

[kcf7z]

I'll try to be brief. I just changed the clutch in my 79 930 and am having problems with the clutch cable engagement adjustment.

I removed the engine/tranny and installed a new clutch, PP, TOB and flywheel - reinstalled everything making sure the clutch fork and the TOB engaged properly and reinstalled the motor without terrible difficulty.

The Problem: when I reconnected the clutch cable, arm, helper spring assembly and adjust the clutch cable per the 101 projects and others advice , I cannot get the approprite 25 mm travel of the clutch arm. Also depressing the clutch is VERY firm and you never seem to reach the disengagement point. The clutch cable is relatively new as it was replaced in the last 2 years (500 miles).

I did start the car out of gear and the motor turned over and ran well. When put into gear, the rear wheels engage and turn and depressing the clutch pedal seems to cause a small amount of disengagement.

The problems seems that the mechanical advantage of the pedal does not allow the clutch cable to travel far enough forward, but I canot determine an adjustment for this at the pedal cluster - the 101 book describes an adjustment clevis for the standard 911, but this doesn't seem present for the 930.

I am stumped. Any help appreciated. My biggest fear is that I installed something wrong on the inside requiring a re-drop of the motor.

[john walker's workshop]

the roll-pin that attaches the clutch pedal to it's shaft often shears, partially, so the pedal looses travel. a new clutch should have a pretty easy pedal. you're sure the release fork was under the ears of the t/o bearing? turbos are a bit trickier than a normal 911, 2 ears on the bearing instead of a full circle for the fork to engage with. maybe you can still see it thru the hole in the bellhousing using a mirror and flashlight.

[geof33]

While on the subject of clutches... what are the symptoms of a failing/needs replacing, clutch? Just slippage, is there an easy way to check the disk? Also, what is the recommended mileage interval for adjustment? I'm talking my 84...

[efhughes3]

Could a throwout bearing installed wrong do this? When I did mine, there was a definite order and direction (spring washer) for everything.

[kcf7z]

John et al.-

We spent over an hour just making sure the TOB-FORK mating was right -this wasn't easy. (Is there a top and bottom to the TOB?) - essentially we had to position the fork just right and keep the TOB in a vertical position and as we slid the tranny and motor together these finally "embraced" one another. Without doing this correctly it does not seem the transmission and the motor would reconnect properly unless the fork was rotated completely lateral. away from the assembly.

With what I've described, what would be your next step other than double-checking the fork-TOB Guide?

What would a bad helper spring do to this picture?

I am getting ready to call the flat bed to take it to the mechanic.

[kcf7z]

bump

[john walker's workshop]

the t/o bearing can easily rotate enough to miss the fork when the trans is bolted up to the engine. you did check it when everything was all bolted up? the top arm of the fork is all you can see thru the back of the bellhousing, and it should be all the way across the top ear of the t/o bearing, not just 1/8" or so. can you see it with a mirror? maybe drop the engine down enough to see in there. with the engine down a bit, you lean over the top with a mirror and flashlight to check the engagement thru the hole in the front upper part of the bellhousing. be sure to disconnect whatever will get stretched, like the wire plug and fuel lines, etc.

[jwmc1]

when I did it, I took the starter off, it helped me see inside...do a partial engine drop and take the starter off, you will be able to see in...sounds like the fork is not mated...

[gadams]

I had the same exact symptoms with my 77 930. Long story short it turn out to be a clutch cable adjustment. The 101 projects advice did not work for my 930.