Dunlop 8000
 

I have Dunlop 8000 in the back (315s). I am not impress with them. got about 1000 miles on it. Any one?

Jeff

mine were way old so not a good comparison

1,000 is very low - did you drag them?

Anyone what?

Randy,

No drag. They just feel funny and it feels like they do not grip as well as my old tires around corners. I had Yokos.

Emission,

I just wanted feed back from anyone with these tires. Thinking maybe I have a bad set or that's just how they are.

I had Dunlop SP8000's on my 1998 BMW 328i. At the time, they were the best Dunlop had to offer, but that was 7 years ago... I wasn't too impressed with them either.

Did you buy them new?

I would check the date code on the side of the tires. Are they old? That could explain a lot.

I don't buy Dunlops anymore (I buy Yokohamas).

so the 1st post re 1,000 miles didn't mean they were worn?

How many years old are they?

Other than that I'd say read the Tire Rack on them. I know the 9000's are a newer, more expensive version...

Randy,

They maybe 2 years old. Had it on another set of rear wheel. They don't make the 9000 in 315 35 17's, I am very happy with the 9000 up front. Looked it up on the Tire rack. They rated them good tires. Maybe its me. I just have to get used to them. What size are your rear tires?

As Emission says, they were one of the top of the line Dunlop tires quite some time ago, but tires have improved substantially. The last set I had was in 1996.

Mojo

And you know that from reading the date code at some point or are you just assuming they didn't sit in a warehouse for years before you bought them?
-Chris

I have SP 8000s on my car. They did fine by me. I got maybe 20 k miles out of them. I will try a different brand next time.

Dean

I had the Dunlop SP8000s on the car and never liked them. Tread squirm was terrible for the first few thousand miles. I called Tire Rack on the problem and they checked out the dates. They said all was fine with that manufacturing run and it should get better over time.....it did, but not untill well into the tire life.

Dunlop 8000 is old hat and overpriced these days.

Much better tire can be had for the same or less money than the 8000.

Had the Dunlops, didn't like em. Went with Michellin Pilot Sports and love them for street. Seem to last forever, too.

My car had them on when I purchased it. They actually seem slippery in hard power turns. I am just waiting for them to wear out so I can buy something else.

If they are old (and hard) enough - they will never wear out.

And yes, decode the date stamp like Chris said.

If that isn't the problem, then you'll want a different type next time. IF old age/hardness is the problem junk them now. 5 to 7 years = bad tires. Somebody claimed 2 or 3 years a week or two ago but gave no citation, and ddin't respond when asked to explain...

OK I will try to look for a date on these tires tomorrow. Not sure what to look for. is it a code or juat a simple date on the tire? Maybe I am experience tread squirm. When I am turning hard, the car seems to want to turn a little more then I wanted it to do.

Jeff

I've had really good luck with 8000's, and I'm running on both of my cars now... Great handling in dry, and surprisingly good in the wet... I've had Goodyear, and Pirelli, and Bridgestone that absolutely SUCKED in the rain... Just replaced the rear's on the '70 about 500 miles ago... Just the typical lifespan for 911's, roughly 18k life for the rear's, and about 30 for the fronts. My cars are both lowered, and on the advice of my independent mechanic, I run 35lbs in the front, and 30 on the rear. Make sure you get a good alignment as well...

Look for the date code on the sidewall:

"Date Codes: Every tire has a date code stamped on the sidewall, which gives the date that the tire was manufactured. They look something like this: DOT PDHH MLOR 3403. The date code can be on either side of the tire, so you may have to crawl underneath the rig and look on the inward facing side. The date code always starts with the letters DOT and ends with a 3 or 4 digit number. That last number is the date code, which tells you when the tire was manufactured. The first two numbers indicate the week (out of 52) and the last one or two digits indicate the year. For instance, 3403 means the 34th week of 2003, or the last week in August 2003. Starting with the year 2000, the date codes have two digits for the year, prior to that, only one. A date code of 079 would indicate the seventh week of 1999, or the third week of February 1999.

Tires deteriorate with age, even when sitting on a shelf, so always ask to see the date code when you purchase new tires and insist on tires manufactured within the last few months. The tire dealer may give you a funny look because most consumers don't know about date codes."

I have Sport 9000's. I don't know if they are any where near the same casing wise; I know the tread is different and sort of good looking, if that means anything. Scary tires, good for practice on tail end wag.

Last weekend someone was following me on the Ortega and said I had the rear end out 30%. I don't know what he meant, I didn't feel anything that wild. He also said the car was all over the road. That's true, it was. Between steering, throttle steer and those tires, it was all over the road. But 30% sideways??

Anyway, I won't be getting any more. Toyo RA1s for me.

Milt,

That was me in that Miata. OK maybe not 30%. More like 30 degrees out of 90. You sure gave that throttle a work out on that street.

Because of your fish tailing (thinking about that all the way home)got me pushing my car a few days later. I go to a remote University parking lot on the edge of the campus where no one will go to on the weekend. I let it rip there when ever I need to test something. This way, I know I can't anyone there.

Jeff