Do I have A Short Shift?
 

Can anyone tell me how to determine if my 911 has the short shift option on it, I'm assuming that I could measure the distance of the throw, but I'm not sure what that should be on an 85. I bought the car through a broker and I'm not sure what the PO has done or if this one had the option from the factory.

I believe it is a factory short shift (84 to 86) had the short shift, from what I've heard. I found this out when I added the seine systems gate shift kit.

Doug

'85 and '86 had what is called a factory semi-short shifter stock the short shift is option M243

look here to see the differences


factory semi-short shifter x dimension is ~46 - 47mm insread of ~54 - 55 of the M243

I beleive that the '80s factory short shifter also has a metal ring spot welded to the shaft aboot 3in fron the top.

Doug, when you installed the new one, was there a significant improvement over the stock shifter - I'm throwing around the idea of putting one in (maybe the wevo). It seems like I might have to remove the shift lever to get a true measurement - I'd hate to spend the money for an upgrade that won't make that much of a difference.

If your wife is happy, I guess it really doesn't matter..... Sorry, couldn't resist...

"I beleive that the '80s factory short shifter also has a metal ring spot welded to the shaft aboot 3in fron the top."

As Bill suggests, there are more reliable ways to determine whether you have a short shifter or not.

From my casual observation, the metal ring on the shift lever (right below the shift knob) occurs on '77 and later shift housings, the housings with the adjuster on the front of the housing. The ring can be removed (remove tack-weld) so the lever can sit deeper in an aftermarket knob (shortens the lever and throw a little). One can also "SawZall" the lever to reduce the throw distance. However, you must have a commensurate longer right arm (LHD cars) - already an issue on our cars. In addition, the shorter the lever, the more effort needed to move the lever (changes fulcrum point). I find the factory short shifter very acceptable in that regard. YMMV. BTW, the '85-'86 shifter is somewhere between A and B.

A = factory
B = factory short shift
C = Weltmeister short shift
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122660052.jpg

Sherwood

Sherwood, nice explanation of the difference between stock, factory short and the after-market Weltmeister type. I like the factory short - the Weiltmeister type are way too short and require far too much effort.

I've always read that the short shift upgrade is one of the most tactile improvements you can make, in some posts people complain about the travel and over all feel of the stock shifter (sloppiness), but I've never really felt mine was too bad, an occasional baulk here and there, but much less frequently now that I've had the car for some time. I'm just not sure if the cost of the Wevo will be felt when driving and want to spend my improvement money where it can be felt (insert wife joke here ;) ).

I'd defer my comments to Bill and Sherwood. Those guys are far more knowledgeable than I. My comments were close, but not close enough.

I do like Seine Systems (Sherwood's) gate shifter product. The price is right, if you are not up for $595 of WEVO's shift + $195 for their coupler. I've heard those are great products, but not inexpensive. I spent about $30 for replacement bushings in my coupler, shifter and shift rod and then about $150 for Sherwood's kit. My shifting is improved, I don't expect to miss a downshift and over-rev the engine, now, either. Check out www.seinesystems.com. I suspect even blueprinting the shifter as discussed in the website will be helpful, alone.

Doug

Thanks for all the info - I took a look at my shifter based upon the photos, and it turns out that I do have the factory short shift option already on the car. I contacted wevo about further throw reduction over the factory shifter with their replacement and he's the response:


There will be some additional reduction in lever travel with our shifter system. It is hard to quantify, as the condition of the components in any mechanism will determine the actual travel at the lever - allowing for all the lost motion that is the result of wear in all components.
The WEVO shifter typically will offer a 2" neutral to in-gear travel. This assumes the use of a coupler with zero lost motion. If you compare this 2" figure with the neutral to in-gear travel of your existing set-up, you will have the answer.


As a result I think I'm just going to do replace the bushings and adjust the shifter following Bob Tindels tech post to see how much better I can get it before diving into $600 purchase. Thanks to all for the advise and info.