Dreaded Head Stud Find, Advice
 

Valve adjust weekend. 88 Carrera, 84,000 miles. Runs fantastic.
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I pull the valve covers and instantly see the dreaded head stud laying there. Ok I can deal with that. Then off to the other side. Pull the cover and look there is another but only the nut is there. Where did the head stud go. Hope that maybe the nut had just come off. Found the washer, cool but the head stud missing was a bit of a puzzle. Evidently was only looking with one eye, it was stuck to the valve cover, mystery solved.
I have decided to drive it the rest of the season since I would miss the Sioux Falls get together. Since I live here I could not stand not being apart of the driving festivities. I will drop the engine right after that. Now the while I'm in there starts. Budget is limited right now so all new lower steel studs. I have searched but what else is relativly cheap to do. :rolleyes: I will check the heads to see if it needs valve guides, valve and whatever else with the heads. I am looking for advice guys. I will do the work myself and send out anything that needs machining. Other than the head studs what do I need to look at. Yes, Wayne's rebuild book is already been ordered. On from there.

Michael,

I generally don't recommend continuing to drive a car with broken head studs. Many here disagree, and brag about driving for some time with no apparent damage once they finally did get around to the tear-down!

The situation with Carrera 3.2 engines is a bit more critical than earlier engines, since there is direct head-to-cylinder contact that was buffered in earlier engines with a sealing ring or gasket.

I suggest a separate thread inquiring of 3.2 owners that have experiences head stud failure and subsequently did their own rebuild ...

I had the same issue last year. I sent the heads off to Steve Weiner for a valve job. I would definitely do this. Well worth the approx $1,000, and Carrerra's are known to wear valve guides, so you might as well do it. You shouldn't need to do anything to Pistons/Cylinders. You could re-ring, but probably don't need to. You could also have camgrinder re-grind the cams, which will run about $400. Since you are on a budget I won't even discuss a bump to 3.4, which requires new pistons/cylinders. :) After doing a lot of research I just replaced all my lower studs with steel, since the top row is already steel. After finishing a few people said I should have replaced them all while it was apart, since it's only another $250 or so. Oh well. I do think most experts say you only need to do the bottom, but the others do have a point, that the steel upper ones are around 20 years old and could be fatigued. With my luck a top one will now break :)

Michael:

Warren offers you REALLY good advice. Don't drive it.

Given that these engines do not use head gaskets and that the head sealing surfaces rests on the top of the cylinders, you'll damage both surfaces to the point that extensive machine work will be needed for repairs. In some cases, head replacement is necessary since one is limited by how much material can be removed to repair the sealing surfaces without ruining them.

Unless you have deep pockets, leave it alone until you can afford to fix it right. :) :)

My 2 cents,

Why not a top end rebuild only, and be done with it?

I feel your pain... good luck.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122748349.jpg

Is it an inside head stud or one on the ends of the head. Mine was an inside row and I drove it for 3 years or about 25,000 miles. The engine was torn down last week for repairs and absolutely no damage wwas detected. The shop says if it is not on the end of the heads there is less stress. I have no idea but 25kmiles and no damage.

Other than a full rebuild including valves, surface the flywheel, replace the clutch with a spring centered one, the only upgrade was to have John Dougherty regrind the cams with a 964 grind. Also replacing the 30 lb stock muffler with a 10 lb one in one out Flowmaster. Cosmetics included bead blasting all of the engine covers, tin, fan, shroud and exhaust system and painting everything with VHT paint. That alone took about a week for me to do. Kitchen oven smells something awful but my wife didn't beat me too much over that. Pics week after next when everything is done.

Hi Michael,
How'd those wheels work out for you?

Guess what, I'm in the exact same situation as you. I have 2 broken on opposite banks, opposite ends, and it drives just fine. In no way will I refute Steve's advice, consider his an expert opinion. But others say that driving with no audible head lifting is "probably" ok, as I'm doing.

But that's not what you are asking. You asked for "while I'm in theres." I have been told that valve guides, rering, lower steel studs, and another to add would be rod bolts for piece of mind. Of course some would consider a low pressure turbo system a good "while you are in there" also. http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...amingdevil.gif

Sorry to hear it Michael - feel free to pm me - that while you are in there can get a little heady -

Thanks everyone. I just finished getting the car back together and it actually starts and runs great:D I must have put everything back right and no drips yet.
Steve, I'll be in contact with you about the heads.
Jason, had to sell the 6 & 7 and also the 8x16 that I had. Not happy about that but had to do it.
Any recommendations on seals, senders or anything else that is hard to get to. Also anyone who has replaced just the head studs let me know how that has worked for you.

Thanks

I just replaced my head studs with Supertech ones - a b!tch to get off - but works of art.

Just pulled valve covers on an SC motor tonight, was greeted with 4 broken studs. 3 of them were intake studs, so it was Dilavar top and bottom (all nonmagnetic).

WTF???

Where I am currently in "the build"

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1122774801.jpg