STUCK -steering lock/ignition locked

island911 · 07-31-2005, 12:38 PM

I got a call from a fellow Pelicanite, stuck in a parking lot . .. a 911SC with a stuck steering lock. The key won't turn . . .even after taking steering wheel pressure off the lock bolt. (that would be too simple)

Any suggestions? . . any tricks? (he's tried wiggling the key . . .and calling John Walker (on vacation)) . . I've searched here-- nadda.

patkeefe · 07-31-2005, 12:53 PM

Mine does this all the time. I usually take a small screwdriver, put it into the keyslot. Then, angle it up so that when it is withdrawn, it drags the tip over the tumblers on top. Repeat and withdraw it over the bottom tumblers.

This also works if you use the key at an angle, up or down.

island911 · 07-31-2005, 02:00 PM

Sticky tumblers, eh?

Yeah, tickling the tumblers didn't work; but, good thinking.

turns out, once again . . .as the saying goes; Anything is possible with enough force and the proper lubrication.

(I suggested a liberal dose of WD40 . .. he got it to turn, right as the flat-bed showed.)

Thanks.

patkeefe · 07-31-2005, 02:11 PM

If it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, it was meant to be replaced anyway.

When he gets the new spare keys made, since his is now bent, file a narrow groove on the sides, a bit up near the fob end. That way, when it breaks, it will break at the file marks, and you can pull out what's left with a pair of pliers.

I also recommend LPS lubricant on a regular basis. It is cheaper to maintain fragile junk than replace it at $300 for the tumbler set.

Edit:
Replace he and his with Mark. Glad you got it working!

07-31-2005, 02:12 PM

Thanks to Island for the life line. After a frustrating hour of jiggling the key, moving the steering wheel within the limits of the column lock, moving the front tires back and forth, the duck gave one more start....5 minutes after the tow truck arrived. I'm going to try douching the tumblers with WD to see it that will clean things out.

Only injury was ego and a damn nasty blister on my key twistin finger. Pat, thanks for the reply.

island911 · 07-31-2005, 02:36 PM

. . just an after thought; maybe a silicone spray would work better, for losening the tumblers . . since they usually have lighter, more evaporative solvents.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

That's what letting a car sit for so long will do for you!

I watched the movie "No Man's Land" last night, the one that's basically about a Porsche car theft ring (late '80s). To steal one car, two of them kicked the wheel to break the lock. I was going to suggest that, but with you bum ankle, prolly not a good idea.

07-31-2005, 03:00 PM

Believe me Ed, I was wondering how to bust through the steering lock.

Another data point, I was just out bathing the tumblers again. Jiggling the key, I got the ignition on again. What I did notice is that the door ajar buzzer does not come on unless the key is turned. Meaning, with the key pushed fully in the cylinder and the door open, there is no buzzer tone until the key gets past lock. This is new today. Thoughts?

patkeefe · 07-31-2005, 03:28 PM

Mark:
My buzzer buzzes whenever the door is open. I should have taken it out when I changed the master cylinder.

Mine first broke on the trip home from the PO's in Houston, in some little town at a gas station SW of Texarkana. Nothing like owning the car for five hours and finding you can't shut it off. So, I learned this trick under duress, much like you just did. Mine did it yesterday while I was staging at an autocross. Just slid the key over the tumblers a few times, and it turned OK.

I tried every chemical lubricant not on the EPA banned list, and found that LPS works best. Douche it with WD-40, then LPS it. Use a lot of rags, cause it dribbles out both ends after awhile.

I think (I may be wrong on this one; consult the manual) there is a single bolt on back of the switch holding the lock pin to the switch. Unscrew the big round trim piece on the dash and you can pull the whole switch out pretty easily. If you get the lock pin disabled, you can then easily pull the switch and get the actual switch separated from the tumblers, and simply stick the end of any key in it to turn it on or start it up.

Lots of luck!
Pat

HarryD · 07-31-2005, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mark Wilson
Thanks to Island for the life line. After a frustrating hour of jiggling the key, moving the steering wheel within the limits of the column lock, moving the front tires back and forth, the duck gave one more start....5 minutes after the tow truck arrived. I'm going to try douching the tumblers with WD to see it that will clean things out.

Only injury was ego and a damn nasty blister on my key twistin finger. Pat, thanks for the reply.

MArk,

If you want to make your locksmith and/or parts guy happy, use WD-40 (it dries and leaves a gunky residue). About 1 1/2 yrs ago, my locksmith has suggessted I use Tri Flow Lube. I have since used it exclusively in my locks and my 30+ yr old locks operate almost like new. Before I used this stuff, they would stick and jam.

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

This happened to a guy at the track yesterday; he had a tire blowout, and the steering lock jammed for some reason. It didn't unlock until he jacked up the car to remove the wheel.

safecracker · 07-31-2005, 06:42 PM

If the lock has not been giving you trouble in the past wd40/tri-flow might solve it. However the bottom line is that when a key suddenly stops turning it is caused by one of the wafers extending up (or down depending on which side it is on) and not settling back down onto the key. The wafers not settling onto the key is caused by a few things. Old and improper lubrication resticting the movement, debri inserted along with the key and blocking movement, a distorted chamber that a wafer travels in or the worst thing is bent/ broken wafer or broken spring. A wafer bending or breaking is usually caused by worn or poorly cut keys and over time the brass wafer finally gives out.

For anyone who gets stuck somewhere, this is what I recommend. Squirt in some WD40 and run the key in and out numerous times, without putting a turning action on the key. This will often free up debris and distribute the lubrication around the whole lock cylinder. After running the key in and out, now insert the key fully and gently wiggle the key back and forth (also removing tension on the wheel at the same time.) Since these locks are double sided, 90% of the time it is a bottom wafer that has to be sprung upward to settle against the key. Unfortunatley gravity is working against you. When a top wafer has movement issues, gravity will usually caused the wafer to settle back down on the key. Hope this helps someone in the future.

08-01-2005, 04:41 AM

Thanks for the responses. I worked the cylinder for a couple hours last night with repeated WD soaks and key fornication. Got it he key to engage and turn a couple times but no consistant love. Also, I noticed that when I twist the wheel now, there is a spring sound down in the area of the steering lock. Looks like surgery time.