Tensioner Failure - Kudos to collars!!

techguy · 07-31-2005, 10:06 AM

I noticed a bit more noise than usual coming from the engine compartment yesterday, I must say very slight. I decided since these motors are famous for tensioner failure to double check my new safety collars installed last fall. I think they worked, at least I don't remember the chain being slack (yellow areas) last year. With a good tensioner I should not be able to move the chain by finger right?

My thought now is to use this method for replacement. Thoughts?

Does anyone still sell the OEM style tensioner? I sure like the safety factor of the collars!

pa911 · 07-31-2005, 10:15 AM

You can rebuild or replace I think P.P carries both.

techguy · 07-31-2005, 10:29 AM

Anyone ever tried this tensioner repair kit?

techguy · 07-31-2005, 11:30 AM

Figured since I am in there anyways whats another gasket, I opened the left side cam housing and the collar is up a nice pennys worth and then a bit, the piston is also out a lot more. So..I am 100% sure I found my clattering noise....what next? Do I install the $500 update, buy a tensioner, or buy a rebulid kit. Its hard to justify a lot of $ into a dripping and sometimes when really hot smoking 35 year old 2.7 motor isn't it.

911pcars · 07-31-2005, 12:38 PM

I remember building my tensioners years ago, but I don't remember all those parts in the bag. I eventually replaced with the pressure-fed guys for no apparent reason other than they were considered "the answer" at the time . The newest turbo tensioners seem pretty long-lived from discussion here.

As long as you still have your hearing and use the collars, you should be okay. The rebuilt ones will eventually fail also; not sure how long compared to new ones. I guess it all depends. YMMV, as they say. BTW, I've also seen collars that were beat to sheet by a flopping chain, probably aided by a loud exhaust system and a subsequent loss of hearing. The multiple collar pieces resulting from repetitious bashing can perform secondary damage.

Sherwood

bjmullan · 07-31-2005, 01:37 PM

I would advice against rebuilding just get normal style tensioners (part # H-105-053-00) and use your collar. As the other post has already said even the hydraulic tensioners will fail. I had a failure last year and after conducting a poll on DDK (a UK base BBS) I went for this option.

DDK Post

Zeke · 07-31-2005, 03:45 PM

And, the collars won't work on the Carrera tensioners, IIRC. So, it's one or the other. I like collars and solid tensioners best.

techguy · 07:05 AM

You will notice in my 1st picture the tensioner that is on my car is Porsche #930.105.049.00 and according to PP Search Engine they have a replacement for $126.34. However, the 1975 parts section lists H-105-053-00 as the replacement and it needs a spacer. Whats the difference? Would it not be best to stick with the original part and eliminate the spacer?

************Update on the difference #930.105.049.00 NLA!!

limble · 07-31-2005, 06:33 PM

The piston on my stock tensioner (70T) was visibly worn so I opted to use the carrera pressure fed. Never had any problems. I have them on the 79 and drive it hard and never had any problems. I do, however, sometimes say a little prayer to the 911 engine gods. You just never know.

techguy · 08-04-2005, 06:45 AM

Well....I am not impressed with the guts of my original tensioner either so Carerra pressure fed here I go. John Walker has some great instructions in the archives on the rebuild if anyone wants to search and the dealer is still stocking the rebuild kits for $22 each. BTW the Haynes manual has an excellent diagram with all the pieces clearly laid out for anyone who wants to rebuild. I can post pics of my units guts if anyone wants a look inside.