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Ball joint removal

Guys,

Anybody have an idea why using the Pelican tool "Ball Joint Pin Wrench Socket, 1/2 Drive, 911 (1965-89), 914 All, 912" for removal of the ball joint nut would not work?

It clearly says so on the label as well, but I don't see any reason why not.

Thanks,
Michiel
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Old 08-10-2005, 03:26 PM
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I might work, but you'll probably ruin it in the process. It should be used for torqing the new one.

John
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Old 08-10-2005, 03:47 PM
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...And it pretty much sucks for torquing the new ones.
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Old 08-10-2005, 04:05 PM
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14 inch pipe wrench
Old 08-10-2005, 04:35 PM
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Sorry, no special tips for ball joint removal but there is a slick trick for tie rod end removals. Take the nut off and, with a steel hammer, rap the steering knuckle. Right where the tie rod end is, of course. The tie rod shaft is tapered, and the rapping momentarily changes the shape of the conical female area, and pops the tie rod end out. Rap firmly. The steering knuckle is more robust than you expect.
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Old 08-10-2005, 04:44 PM
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Homemade BJ nut removal tool:



And a good thread to read about the subject.
Old 08-10-2005, 05:20 PM
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Three important steps in the ball-joint removal process ... all done with a floor jack in place ... elevating the center of the crossmember for steps #1 & #2.

1) Be sure to get the slotted nut and surrounding area absolutely clean by spending four or five minutes at a wand wash on just those control arms and nuts ... longer if visible corrosion is present! You want the area pristine, and grease-free!

2) Spray down the area above the nut, and at the lower extent of the ball-joint body not covered by the nut ... with 9% pickling vinegar, repeatedly, over several hours. When no bubbling occurs after an overnight soak ... you are almost ready to attempt loosening the nut. Spray the threads and nut with PB-Blaster, and allow to soak overnight.

3) Put the floor jack under the socket and breaker-bar ... with wooden block [2 x 4, or 2 x 6] on the jack plate, and lift the centered and engaged socket on the nut with the jack until the tire on that side is off the ground by an inch or so. With a cheater pipe on the breaker bar ... apply tightening force, first, then loosen.
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:01 PM
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Maybe I have been lucky. I am yet to have any trouble getting them off with the socket and my impact wrench (knock on wood)! The socket looks like new still and i have taken a half dozen or so off with it.

Jeff
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:19 PM
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I don';t know about the tool you mention. I was successful in removing with a part froma local auto store - the idea come form aposting on thi board. I can't find now, but here is a thread 9 i hope I did this right) with a picture of the tool/

http://www.gruppeb.org/forum2/viewtopic.php?t=1137&highlight=bastard+tools

Ir eemoved my ball joint nuts , the are were off the car though. After some signifcant soaking ( days) in PB and other penetrating oils. Oh, I had an impact wrench too!

Good luck
Earl
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Old 08-11-2005, 07:27 AM
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I did exactly as Warren suggested and and added about two minutes of heat from a propane torch, and my ball joint nuts spun right off with the Pelican tool, with no damage to the tool what so ever.
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Old 08-11-2005, 01:17 PM
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I used a chisel on the castle nut (were'nt much good when I got them off though) just buy new ones. I was only able to get 150lbs. of torque using the floor jack piece of wood method though.
Old 08-11-2005, 04:04 PM
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I just did this last weekend on my 35 year old 911T, original ball joints. didn't soak in PB blaster or anything. Just took a dull chisel and 2lb hammer and a few good blows had them coming right off. caveat: this has been a CA & TX car.
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zeke
Homemade BJ nut removal tool:



And a good thread to read about the subject.
Zeke,
Very clever tool!
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Old 08-12-2005, 12:45 PM
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I'm about to change my A-arm bushings and have to deal with the ball joint issue; would you guys replace them with only @30K miles on them? The car is an 84 3.2 with 90K on the clock and these are the second set.
Regards,
J.P.
Old 08-12-2005, 02:22 PM
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JP - As long as the rubber is good, I see no sense in changing them with 30K, unless a real defect is detected.
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Old 08-15-2005, 05:09 AM
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Just did them last night as I was having my rear tires changed... I used the shop's impact wrench and they came spinning right off. And in very good shape, no damage... so I reused them.

The balljoints soaked in WD-40 for three nights, applying some more every day and they came off very easily with the impact tool.


So the conclusion is that the tool can be used for removing the balljoints as long as it is used with an impact wrench.

Peace out!
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Old 08-27-2005, 03:28 PM
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Good tip on the way I do it..

Heat up ball joint nut with map or propane gas till hot ..then spray wd-40 in the ends ..it get sucked up into the threads ..then use ball joint tool with electric or air impact ..and they will spin off

Joe
Old 08-27-2005, 07:16 PM
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good idea but use a pentrating oil like Kroil or pb Blaster or the Wurth stuff

WD-40 just displaces water and that's about all...
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:04 AM
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As a matter of fact, I used Castrol DWF to let them soak... the store told me it was an alternative to WD-40, but I think it is some form of oil as well.

Worked for me... in Dutch we call this "kruip olie" which translates into "crawl oil"... this must be similar to the products Randy described.
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:16 PM
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this tool works very well....just did the job a few hrs ago.

The trick is to position the jack beneath it so it stays in place. then use very long extension for leverage....also make sure you spin right direction. spins right off.
Old 08-30-2005, 05:09 PM
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