Engine upgrade recommendations
 

I need some advice. My car was recently diagnosed with a loose head and no compression on number 6. To really find out what is gong on with it we will need to open it up and check it out. I am guessing at the lease I will need to do a valve job but when it is apart what else should I do? This is a track only car. The money tree in the back yard is not in bloom so I am looking for the best bang for the buck. Car is a 3.2

Thanks - Tim

Phosphor-Bronze guides, CS valves, valve spring upgrade of your choice, cams of your choice, rod, bolts, none of tyhjis is particularly cheap though

Hi Tim:

You did not mention how many miles are on your car and honestly, that plays a big role in what you do here.

Compression losses can be valve or ring problems and one gets a LOT more expensive to resolve than the other,.....:)

good excuse for ti valve springs and some good machine work & new cams or a swap to a 3.6 for slightly more $...

also, a vlave job on a 3.2 isn't such a big deal. should be factored into the cost of haveing a track car t.b.o. clocks and what-not. if you don't have the tools yourself have a respectable mechanic do a leakdown on the car and they should be able to tell you where the problem is and help you to narrow your options.

Steve,
I have 80,000 miles on the car. I think it is a valve issue but when it is open I might as well do some upgrades.

Bill, unfortunately you are correct on the $$. But what I am looking for is the best value for HP increase.

Take a look at the Engine Rebuild book, Chapter 3 & 4, I have a ton of recommendations in there: http://www.101projects.com

-Wayne

Thanks Wayne....

I started readying your rebuild book today.

Try Miracle-Gro on the money tree...

3.4 - Bore the cylinders - new JE pistons will cost you the same as a set of euro 3.2's - Jon at EBS can set you up (they did my heads too) TI valve springs , etc.

But really - you are almost better off cost wise selling the 3.2 as a core - finding a nice 3.6 and shoe horning that in. You going to replace the clutch? Exhaust?

Rod bolts? How about Head studs - I replaced mine. Believe me there is lots to do "while you are in there)

Like reference sensors - head temp sensor - Extrude Hone - Big throttle body - lots of stuff to do...

At the minimum:

Performance valve job (I recommend EBS)
New rings
Better valve springs since it's a track car (titanium retainers if you want to increase your redline)
ARP rod bolts
ARP cylinder studs (if you want to splurge a little)

Might also deck the head and put some 964 cams a good exhaust and a nice chip.

OR a 3.6 964 is cheeper and easer to get than a 993.

or 993 ss cams (depending if you have smog) And I bought supertech head studs - the arp ones are hard to come by.

How about European headers or at least B & B? Don't forget rsr rocker seals.

Timmons 3.6 if you can talk yourself into it. I'm trying to resist the urge myself.

One thing to add, Tim will be clubracing this car in a stock or prepared class and needs to stay with his stock displacement. So, while 3.4s and 3.6s sound cool, I think it would cost a little too much to make it a GT car...
What would the groups rec be for cams for a track only 3.2 and what sort of cost would be involved in some light headwork from someone like EBS/Otto's/Ollies. Also, to get the most out of the setup, will a customized chip from Steve Wong be in order? I'm sure I'll be heading down this road eventually to keep up with him in my ROW 3.0, so don't give him any real good ideas:)

Thank you Brian…..

Jeremy I would like to see what all you are doing to yours. I met you at Sebring last January. I am Craig Stevens’s son. If my car is back together I am scheduled to make it back to Sebring in November. Thanks for all the input

Yeah Tim - I remember. Your Dad said you might be going down that route too. I'd be happy to help you anyway that I can.

This is what the PCA club the rule book has this to say
1. Engine
A. As delivered from factory. No modifications after the air filter or before the exhaust port.
B. Stock, for the year, fuel injection must be retained, except carburetors may be substituted for
mechanical fuel injection.
C. Electronic fuel injection must retain stock DME and KLR chip (if applicable).
D. Turbocharged cars cannot exceed factory specified maximum boost, nor can any of the stock
turbocharger, turbocharger plumbing, or boost control components be replaced with non-stock
components or altered in any way that could affect performance.
E. Exhaust system is free providing the engine meets any local noise limit requirements.
F. Machining for balancing purposes only is allowed.
G. Air conditioning belts and air injection systems may be removed.
H. Oil coolers are free.
I. Substitution of any other flywheel for a stock dual mass flywheel will count as a “prepared”
change and the vehicle will progress up one stock class if it has not already done so due to other
“prepared” modifications.
J. Any ignition trigger which uses a standard distributor with stock style cap and rotor to deliver
the charge to the appropriate cylinder is permitted.
K. Valve Spring retainers and clips are free.
L. Direct plug-in aftermarket non-programmable CD Units from OEM suppliers are allowed.

So other than blueprinting to stock specs there really isn't much that can be done. Better guides, blueprinting ports and seats, exhaust are about it.

The above is prefaced bby the following
Stock — Classes A thru K
Any vehicle in the stock classes, including “prepared” vehicles, must compete with full road equipment
and, with the exception of exhaust/emissions, be street legal as designed by the factory, capable of
being registered for street use in the condition of the car when presented at scrutineering, and capable
of being driven to and from the event. “Euro-spec” cars will automatically progress up one stock class.

EBS's pricing is on their website: www.ebsracing.com