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easiest way to swap deck lids
I recently acquired a deck lid with tail that I plan to mount temporarily for track days, and possibly as long as I like the look/performance effects. But, I definitely am keeping my original tail-less decklid for swapping.
My question is this - is it easier to leave the hinges and latch with the car or with the decklid? My tailed decklid came with no latch or hinges - do I need spares, or is it simple enough to swap them out on each deck lid? I could pick up a set of these used, but in looking at the mounting points for the hinges, it looks like it may just be easier to scribe the outline of the hinge onto each decklid and bolt it on. I suppose it will depend on how similar the two decklids are dimensionally. PS: I'm adding the front rubber spoiler and plan to leave it on the car all the time, as I've read repeatedly that configuration is ok with or without a tail.
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'84 Carrera Coupe - B&B Headers and one-out muffler; K&N Cone intake; Steve Wong Chip; Euro height and corner balanced; 171K Miles (9/12) |
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I think it's easier to leave the hinges on the car.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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Leave the hinges w/ the car and have 2 latches( 1 for each deck). That way it is a 2 person 4 bolt swapover. Sometimes you will want washers under the bolts to even things out.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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cycling has-been
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 7,244
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six of one, half-dozen of the other. I swap between stock for concours & duck tail for driving events and keep a set of painted hinge mounts on both lids. swap time is only about 20 mins w/o license plate lights, plus no alignment issues.
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73 911T MFI, 76 912E, 77 Turbo Carrera |
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sounds like I'm in the market for a second latch and will keep the hinges on the car.
I think this may be the straw that breaks my non-working A/C back. Moving that condensor looks like the biggest PITA in the whole job. The only other issue I see is the engine illumination light's wires are tethered to the hinges, so I guess I could remove it from the decklid and re-mount each time on the one in use.
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'84 Carrera Coupe - B&B Headers and one-out muffler; K&N Cone intake; Steve Wong Chip; Euro height and corner balanced; 171K Miles (9/12) |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 1,325
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I recently added a whale tail to my '85 Carrera. As you will discover careful attention must be paid to the alignment of the latch pin. Very easy to misalign and lock the deck lid.
Another thing I did is get a much stiffer compression spring from my local hardware store for the latch pin with the Whale tail. The tail is significantly heavier thus needs a spring with more "push" to lift the deck when opening. You may want to add another deck lid shock to handle the added weight.
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DOUG '76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's. '85 911 Carrera, stock, just painted, Orient Red |
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Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Los Angeles
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I swap tails at least once a month. I keep a set of hinges and the latch on each one, and use a prop bar instead of shocks. It's two bolts and five minutes of work. Working out fit issues with spacers each time would be a nightmare, IMO.
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Jack Olsen 1972 911 My new video about my garage. • A video from German TV about my 911 |
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I've gotta admit I don't swap decks regularly
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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ok, so maybe I'll add the hinges to my shopping list. I only have one shock, and no mounting point on the passenger side, so I was also planning a prop rod on the winged lid.
Thanks for all the input.
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'84 Carrera Coupe - B&B Headers and one-out muffler; K&N Cone intake; Steve Wong Chip; Euro height and corner balanced; 171K Miles (9/12) |
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Too big to fail
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I used to swap between my track tail and C2 lid frequently, and I could swap lids in about 30s.
Each had its own set of hinges, but I modified the hinge mount on the car slightly and used 3/8" quick release pins instead of bolts, with a 1/4" pin for the hood shock. I used PC wire connectors for the brake light and retractor signal/power leads.
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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Without the padding, I'd opt for Jack's method. Otherwise, the bolts under there can be better than a Yoga exercise to work on. The benefit, of course is what JO said, no alignment issues once each is porperly aligned.
But, there is a way to accomplish that too. Old body shop trick of tracing around each hinge with pen, pencil or scribe to establish the position. AFA spacers go, put them on the lid with a glue gun. They'll stay until you want them off. For the wires on lids that have lights in them, one could put a 2nd set of spade type connectors at the hinge or just get used to the one way in there and put one on the ground side. Use ty-wraps instead of the metal clips which scratch each time you remove and reinstall them. I have two lids and each has a wire loom in it. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 1,415
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I have swapped lids about four times this year and I have one set of hinges mounted to the car but each tail has a male latch installed. It takes me 15 mins to swap lids by myself. Although, my heaviest lid (Metal ducktail) is only 23 lbs. I can see where a Carrera or Turbo tail that weighs more would require two people.
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Gone but not forgotten - 1980 Porsche 911SC w/ -22mm/28mm Torsion Bars | Custom Valved Bilsteins | 22mm/21mm Carrera Sway Bars | Elephant Poly/Bronze Bushings | Carrera Brakes | AJ-USA Brake Cooling | Carrera Oil Cooler w/ Fan | Elephant Strut Brace | Oh, and no ABS or PSM or A/C |
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