Upgrade list, anything missing? Pics!
 

So far i have done or recently order the following parts and just wondering if there is anything else i should get before i go tearing into the car to replace the parts? thanks

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1125543630.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1125543767.jpg


for suspension:

Weltmeister front and rear 22mm sway bars
Bilstien sport shocks front and rear
Sway a way adjustable rear spring plates
23mm and 31mm torsion bars
turbo tie rod ends
bump steer kit
weltmeister front strut brace
elephant racing front polybronze suspension bushing
cv boots
rear wheel bearings
ball joints

Everything else:

Lower turbo valve covers
sport motor/transmission mounts
factory short shifter kit
msd system and blaster coil
targa body brace
h4

So just wondering if i'm on the right track, this car being my first pcar, i need all the help i can get. thanks

You appear to have a comprehensive list . I would add an upgraded front oil cooler (Carrera in wheelwell) for engine longevity.
If you have Bilstein shocks already I would recommend you send them to Bilstein in Calif. for custom valving rebuild which will better match your torsion bar choice.They set the compression and rebound slightly different than the regular sport .I just did all 4 on mine for $285 with shipping 2 ways

I went to the car and jack it up to see if i have a front oil cooler in the car and it looks like that i do have one. With bilstein is it something that they do often, maybe listed under their website or is there a number that i should call to find out about the revalving? thanks

Why adjustable spring plates? Yours should be adjustable from the get-go.

I'd suggest perhaps 22/31 t-bars; I had 23/31 and it pushed like a Camaro

While you're in there, replace the inner trailing arm bushings with monoballs and maybe even install the front shock monoballs; of course doing front monoballs means you need to get a different strut brace.

I was talking to a few people and was told that lowering the rear was a pita. I was looking on pelican and found the adjustable spring plates, here is what the ad said:

Adjustable Spring Plates
Click Here to Order

These adjustable spring plates by Sway-A-Way are exactly what you need if you are looking to often adjust the rear height of your 911 suspension. Designed with a built-in adjustment screw, the height of your rear suspension can be changed and fine-tuned within a matter of minutes. If you've ever tried to adjust the height of your car by moving the torsion bar splines, you will quickly appreciate the time and money saved by using these plates. The kit contains brand new rear suspension bushings already installed. These spring plates allow for increased adjustability beyond the amounts that can be adjusted with the stock components on those 911s equipped with stock rear height adjustment screws.
Manufacturer - Sway-A-Way


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1125548175.jpg

So figuring it would make lowering the rear of the car that much faster. The good thing is that i haven't installed these yet and they still sit in a box.
Also, with going to a 22 just a mm off makes that much of a difference? I was told by a few people to go 22 and 28mm and that the 31 is overkill. With a 22 and 31 how are the driving charcteristics? I'am looking for a very firm ride, so i think i'm heading in the right direction. With the monoballs is this what your talking about?

Elephant Racing Weather-Sealed Front Monoball Cartridge Set,

Elephant Racing Weather-Sealed Rear Monoball Cartridge Set,

Thanks

The revalving is done by them all the time Jack French is the man to ask for if you call. He suggested a valving that was slightly stiffer than Sport on rebound but slightly less on compression because the stiff bars will provide some of the resistance on compression . You provide him with weight,modifications (bars,bushings etc)and intended use. You have Bilstein shocks already if they are green painted bodies. You also have already got height adjustable rear arms. They are on cars with alum trailing arms newer than 74, 5 or 6. They have a range of about 3/4" . They are not as easy to adjust as the pictured ones and if you already have the then you have new bushings as well. You might recover some cost by selling your stock adjustable arms. I also wonder about excess understeer with your 23/30 T bars. I am also installing the same size in my coupe as i bought them used If too much understeer I will trade my fronts for 22s
Not knowing your level of expertise .These cars have a standard type front cooler called a trombone (tube loop) There are several more efficient upgrades .

Thanks for the info about the revalving, it seems like that would be the last thing for me to do after everything else is installed to make sure they valved right. My expertise is slim to none, so i most likely do have a trombone, but i'll have a second look at it by somebody that knows what he is looking at. So instead of a 23 and 31mm bars i should go with a 22 and 30mm, would that setup have less understeer? thanks

I would caution you on the weltmeister sway bars. The bar itself is fine, does what it is supposed to is easily adjustable and doesnt cost too much. The problem I have seen twice now is that the eccentric which mounts onto the spring plate and onto what the droplink bolts has a tendency to bend and eventually sheer off.

This has happened to my dad's car twice and it's quite a pita. Thats it from me, the guys have steered you right elsewhere.

That is good info about the sway bars hopefully i will have better luck than your dad in this situation. thanks

Monoballs