Replace head studs. Can I do it?
 

I have a 1980 SC that has 2 broken head studs. 90,000 mi. I got a quote from a local shop in Pittsburgh of approx. $2,000 to do the work. Is this a job I can do at home? I have read Wayne's book and frankly timing the cams scares the hell out of me. Looking for some one that has BTDT. How much did it cost you? This is my daily driver and I am only interested in replacing the studs, replacing the ramps and rebuilding the tensioners as the car runs great as is.

Thanks to all.

Bernie P.

I had a quote that started at $1500 to replace only the broken stud side. I cannot remember if it was to only fix the broken one or replace all on one side. I ended up getting a complete rebuild plus a few performance upgrades.

In all truth, I think you should consider doing a top end rebuild at least. With 90k on the motor there is going to be some wear and you will have it apart anyway. Back to your question. YES, you can do this yourself. You need to do some research and get familiar with the motor and what tasks you are going to have to complete (wayne's book is good for this) and you will have to be patient and take your time. Start frequenting the engine rebuilding forum, there is lots of good info there and stories from people who have done just what you are thinking about.

Cheers, Jeff

Timing cams is not difficult at all. It is a little scary to read about but it is one of those things that will make so much more sense when you are actually doing it. IF you run into trouble, a quick post with a question will usually get you prompt answers to your questions.

Jeff

Just hope that you don't break additional studs while rebuilding the engine. You could end up towing the car to a shop once you realize you are over your head on this repair. Also unless you have a lot of the specialty tools for rebuilding a 911 engine (i.e dial indicator, engine stand etc.) it will probably cost you more to buy the tools thasn to have it done at a shop.

a little heat - ok alot of heat and it's not that hard...

I completed mine a few months back and it runs great. It would be wise to rebuild the heads complete with new guides while they are out. No reason to fear timing the cams, really not that difficult. Work slowly, mark and bag all parts and take plenty of pics. Go for it.

What?! Dial gage, crowfoot, and the cam socket. $200-250. You don't need an engine stand. You trying to scare the guy?

ianc

NOPE just being the DEVIL ADVOCATE

Go for it.......
 

BernieP,

If you believe and want to do it, just do it. It sounds very intimidating rebuilding a Porsche 911 engine at first glance but once you get there, your outlook will obviously change.

Tools from Harbor freight or Sears are what you need to do the job. Take your time to understand the mechanical configuration of the motor. As mentioned before, take a lot of photos, use ziplock bags (with labels), and a notebook to jot down notes.

Have a couple of 'mentor' or contacts you could call to ask question or not sure what to do. Finally, shoot a posting as needed. Reference books and manuals will help a lot. Have fun.....

Tony

I'm cheap and I did the work myself. I replaced all 12 lower dilivar headstuds with steel ones, new gaskets, and $300 dollars later I was back on the road. My SC had 107,000 miles on it when I did it. If the SC engines are indeed bullitproof and can go 200,000 miles before a rebuild is necessary, I'll rebuild it then. At 3,500 miles driving a year, that's 26.5 years from now.

Just some thing to think about....... Yes, there are stories of very high mileage SC's running around. Does that mean they all last that long? I just tore down a low mile SC (55K) and it needed 7 valves and all new guides. P/C set were fine as was the bottom end. The motor came apart to replace broken head studs. It is worth having the heads looked at. Another thing to consider is the head to cylinder sealing surface. This motor was driven less than 3500 miles with the broken studs and we took 10thou of the heads to clean them up!

Every case is different, but be aware of what you might find....

Cheers

Cam timing can be a bit frustrating, but its not that hard.
Just get some good tools. I´m not sure if you got the old style cam nut, but if you do don´t get the camholder sold here. I did and it was the worst piece of crap I have ever seen/used, poor fit and made of really soft metal. If I would time my cams again I woud go to the local machine shop and have one made. Would probably be cheaper also.

80 should have the nut. I think they went to the bolt in 81.

ianc

To ianc and all,

I'm planning a top-end rebuild this fall on my '79SC3.0, changing the P&C to a SS3.2 with dc20/21 cams.

Regarding an engine stand, I can see how invaluable it would be for doing a full rebuild, but can I get by (reasonably) without one if I'm only doing a top-end?

-Rob

BrianP,

Just another data point - I rebuilt my top end 2 years ago myself following Wayne's Engine Rebuild book, factory workshop reference, and asks lots of questions on the board + my mechanic. Prior to that, I haven't even changed a spark plug in my life :)

She ran great for 2 seasons (I pretty much only use the car on track). Just broke a valve spring, likely due to valve float, yesterday :( so I'm going to try a full top down this time...

So... if you really want to, be patient, & find lots of reference, you can do it!

I would get the stand if I were you, it´s real nice to be able to have the engine up in the air and to be able to turn it.

Just get the adapter ring and use a universal engine stand.

Invaluable, no. Convenient, yes. For doing only top end work, a metal-covered workbench of suitable height and width will do fine.

ianc

I did the studs in mine for around $1100 but that included a stand and the crow's foot wrench and the cam socket. I also did a few of those while I'm in there things.
I sold the stand after I was done with it and recouped all the money for it.
i still have the crow's foot wrech and the cam socket, I'll prolly end up selling them one of these days.

My engine had just over 100,000 miles on it and did not need valve guides, in fact everything on the heads was still in spec.

I just cleaned, inspected, and reinstalled the heads.

I changed the rings even though it didn't need it.