1st of 101 Projects for My P-Car (and my first order!)
 

It's official, I'm a Pelicaner having received my first order via Fedex around 5pm CST today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126750999.jpg

And I started my first (actually second because I already replaced the 2 MC switches last weekend) project.

It was to replace the rear fuse relay which allows brake lights.

This relay is not a fun part to replace as I couldn't find in any picture or manual what secures the screws in. I was un-screwing, and un-screwing and well you guessed it.

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Finally started a brute force method, not pretty w/plastic flying off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126751500.jpg

I simply did not know what was holding the screws in, until I finally put my fingers in the holes which allowed me to hold the nut that was acting as a retainer.

I show it here only because it occupied 2+ hours of my life tonight and my holding it apart was my reward for the effort.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126751612.jpg

There was one positive benefit, I could pivot the relay on the bottom screw to finally undo the screw that retains the wires.
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I am left 3 hours later, but not able to get the bottom screw out --- any ideas without removing the whole assembly? Am I doing something wrong to not be able to retain the nut while unscrewing??

-Tom
Ps: Next project, first oil change on Saturday...

Pss: I had no idea Wayne did this -- nice touch!




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126751935.jpg

Nice job, but that is a fuse block, not a relay.

Hey, don't feel bad...my first attempt at working on my car (well except for replacing deck lid shocks) was trying to fix my turn signal switch and I ended up melting the plastic inside in the process. Pelican to the rescue!!

I spent tonight trying to remove the rubber from my spring plates, with little reward and several skin burns. Everything you do something for the first time it takes 3 times a long as it should and you break other crap doing. Reading this helped me realise that this happens to people other than just me. And coming from someone who knows where you are at right now: It will all work out in the end. :D

Be careful...did you disco the battery?

That fuse block is live.....

I did not -- going now to disconnect.

Still clueless how to get the bottom screw out -- has any pelican done this before??

-Tom

Anticipative Bump.

Are you trying to get the fuse block mounting screw out or the screw that clamps the wires?
If it's the clamping screw, just hold the copper block with pliers and crank the screw loose with a screwdriver or small vicegrips.
Try to tighten the screw first to break the corrosion or apply some focused heat (soldering iron or mini butane torch).

FYI - there are several great Gruppe B guys in the Chicago area who may be able to lend a hand and some moral support.

Jdowty3 - I am trying to remove the screw (bottom, as I got the top see pics) that attaches the fuse block to the assy. The wires and clamping screws were easy.

(edit - Jim, I'm trying to clear stuff to meet some of the GruppeB guys as Matthew lowers an engine this Sunday...)

I just cannot figure out how to get back there to secure the nut that still retains the bottom screw....

Quick, send Wayne's book back before it's too late & you are drawn into the black abyss of DIY! He is Satan in disguise & is developing a pipeline to funnel your money his way. This is cleverly done through "projects" & becomes never ending.

Don't know what year your car is, but on my 73 911T, it wasn't too difficult to remove the entire relay panel. You've already disconnected the battery. I disconnected all the connectors because I wanted to clean them all. There were like 6 or so nuts that need to be removed. My recollection is that there was one hidden below the CD. Then the panel comes right off. I did this awhile back, so I hope my memory is correct. Good luck. Gary

Two minute job - just remove the bolts that hold that whole bracket on, and then you can get to the underside. I just replaced the fuse block on my '72. They are still available, but the older ones have different bridging underneath, so you need to be aware...

-Wayne

Hey! There's a new (white) cover 101 projects. Another printing? If so, congratulations, Wayne.

EDIT: Oh, also triple time estimates an budget for replacing unnecessarily broken parts near the work area when I embark on new projects. It's a handy way to ensure I slowly replace the entire part one Pelican part at a time....

If it doesn't work by Wayne's method (or you just don't feel like poosibly breaking even more parts! ) just grab a dremmel and cut the head off. New hardware is cheap. Keep it metric if you can, it may save you from rounding off the nut the next time around ( when you forget that you used standard sizes ).

Update: Couldn't figure out how to get the panel off as Wayne suggested, so well......I ended up snipping them.

(sigh)

Of course, I have no suitable metric screws, so right now it's unsecured until I get a pair that's a good match as replacements.

Suggested Time: 2 Minutes
Total time: 3.5 hours.

-Tom
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126894642.jpg

Next project, replacing the Chicago Ice-breaker with a real turbo style rear hood strut/support.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1126894673.jpg

You got the email about that hood shock right?

Yes, and many thanks. I'll be doing my best to attend on Sunday, will email you either way to confirm.

-Tom

Are all 3 fuses supposed to be 25 Amp?

Apparently, yes.