Rack spacer install HELL!!!!!!!
 

I cannot get the bolts threaded!!!! I have spent HOURS and I fear I have stripped the female threads in the rack. I have certainly stripped the bolts, which I will try to match at the hardware store tomorrow. Holes are PERFECTLY lined up and no joy. Every time I think I've done the most frustrating job ever, a new one takes the prize. I have never been so frustated in my life. How do I finish this? Car is immobile in my garage until I get this done. ARRGGGGGGGGGGGGGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Relax RL. Run a tap through the threads, make sure they are free of debris and have clean threads. Are you using longer bolts?

While I can't help you, I look forward to the solution to your dilemma.
I am waiting for my spacer kit to come this week from Pelican. Please post the outcome, Rick.
Thanks,

Chris, I can't run a tap through there with the cross member in the way, can I? I'm afraid of just cross threading it even worse. Yes, I have the longer bolts, which are useless now, since they're cross threaded. I have jury duty in fed. court tomorrow and will be walking through that metal detector with the bolt in my pocket, since I'm taking the Metro and can't leave it in my car. Can't wait to explain this one. I'm getting drunk right now and I really need to clean my guns after yesterday at the range. This can't be good.

It may seem impossible but it's not. Just be patient. Use some pry bars to locate the steering rack, but thread the bolts by hand so you don't strip them. Get them both started before you thread them in very far.

If the bolt reaches, a tap will. Odds are just the first thread is F'd, you should be ok.

David, holes are perfectly aligned. They ain't a threadin'.

How about taking the spacers back out and thread the bolts in and check again. I've done mine twice. I know it's a pain, but it can be done. I thought I had damaged mine too but I didn't.

For those of you doing this upgrade, the easiest way is to do ONE BOLT AT A TIME. Only loosen the 2nd bolt enough to get the spacer in for the 1st replacement bolt. Start over again and install the original bolts and go from there....

Rick,

RELAX. That's all you need to do. I went through exactly the same thing when I put mine in. Your bolts aren't stripped. The grooves in the rack aren't stripped either.

The key/trick is the alignment of the holes. No matter how sure you THINK the holes may be; they are not. Lift te rack with a screwdriver and move it around. You will eventually get the right alingmennt and BINGO, you are there.

So remember, R E L A X and don't give up! It took me 4 hours and a six pack to get mine done.

Good luck.

-Jorge

Did you loosen the clamp on the steering column U joint?

When you raise the rack, you need to shorten the column by allowing it to slide deeper into the U joint.

If you try to get the holes aligned and bolts started without first looseing the clamp, the column will fight your positioning the whole time = beatch.

Chuck is right - that's the trick (couldn't remember it until he mentioned it). You will not be able to do this install without the rack u-joint loosened up.

-Wayne

Yes, I loosened the coupler in the smuggler's box. I had no problem at all getting the spacers in.

Is there any chance your first replacement bolts (that came with the rack spacers) were the wrong size or pitch?

I would loosen EVERYTHING again - steering joint, rear crossmember mount bolts (the ones that go through the rear torsion arm mount), run a tap through the rack holes (important!), start with new bolts (be sure the diameter and pitch matches the OEM bolts), line everything up with a tapered drift, and go at it again. If that doesn't work, you've shifted to a parallel universe.

That's not what Wayne and Chuck are referring to. They assumed you loosened the u-clamp. They are talking about the actual u-joints under the plastic cover. I had to make the flat where the bolt passes on the angled shaft longer on 2 cars to unbind the steering. This shortened the shaft length more than just loosening the bolts. You have to turn the wheel lock to lock and feel for binding when you are through with the bolts. Make sure to have them super clean and use Loctite. I have had them come loose and that really boogers up the threads inside the rack.

Don't worry if you messed up the rack. They sell cheap on the part4sale BBS. Techweenie and I couldn't give them away.

I don't think I need to loosen anything else, as I had no trouble at all getting the spacers in. My only problem is threading the damn bolts. I have to buy new bolts tomorrow and maybe a tap and die kit and try again.

Rick:
Mine was the same way. It looks like it is perfectly lined up, but it's really off a few degrees...just enough to make you want to get drunk, pass through a federal court metal detector with a bolt in your pocket and gunpowder residue on your person.

Take the spacers back out, so that the rack has some play in it again. Get a tap and carefully start it by hand, and fix the holes. Loosen up all of the stuff that Chuck and Zeke said. Make sure the sway bar brackets are loose. Carefully feel the bolt being threaded into the hole...wiggle the rack around while you do this. It is a PITA. The rack has to be completely free to pivot. If this doesn't work, resume drinking and shoot the rack.

Oh, jury duty today was just what I needed to console me. Bolt was found and I was asked about it. Case was a fed. murder/RICO rap with the notorious gang MS-13. Only in Alexandria, VA can the judge ask 84 potential jurors if any of them know anyone in the FBI and half the room stands up. First guy questioned was a CIA analyst. You can imagine how long this took. I got picked as the last of two and then was kicked off by the defense. I did sneer at the defendant, as I didn't relish the prospect of a few more weeks of this nightmare we call a civic duty. This was bad enough to make me want to unregister to vote, so they can't select me for jury duty again.

HI Rick,
I struggled with this at first too. The bolts provided with my kit were a minimal length for the spacer thickness, so this is what I did.

A spacer is a spacer, yes? Do you have to use the round collars? No. After all, they're just ..... spacers. Anything equivalent will do.

I installed the supplied bolts so they engaged a few threads, then I selected a stack of wheel alignment shims equivalent to the spacer; they're u-shaped washers with a small tang sticking out to grab onto. With the steering shaft u-joint loosened (as suggested above), I slip-fitted the shims into place (with persuasive hammer), then tightened the bolts the rest of the way.

From the sound of things, it'd be easier starting with a longer set of bolts, and as I remember, I did use longer ones to make the above procedure possible. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1127281887.jpg

Sherwood

RL, if you can wait until Fri. night or sometime during the weekend, I can drop by with my tap&die set and we can finish this project. Just keep your guns in the house and everything will be OK. :)