Any Mystery To Changing Out Front Shocks (inserts)?
 

I just got my new Koni inserts for my already installed Koni struts in the mail yesterday and am excited about getting them in. I am a bit confused though on the level of detail or danger in this job.
I think its as easy as unscrewing the tower bolt and out they come, BUT! Will they come out like a ballistic missle?! The big question is how to set up the replacement configuration on the suspension (do I jack up the front or let it hang?). If someone can offer a quick tutorial on the R&R of these babies, I sure would appreciate it. No retaining pin on the bottom. Looks like you drop them in and thats it......or is it?

Thanks
Bob
73.5T

I replaced my Boges with Bilsteins. Do a search and find the story.

Complex? Nope! Like oil changes and brake pad changes.....

Try find Smart Racing web page. They have some info for assembly and disassembly struts.

On the contrary - gas shocks will stay extended it will actually take quit a strong pull to compress them out of the top hole ( and out under the fender lip).

My old hydraulic Boge however did slowly compress by them self when I took of the top bolt.. ;)

Seriously, not difficult (and not dangerous). Only thing I found tricky was getting enough angle on the shock to be able to get it out free of the fender lip.

The trick(for me) was to take of the little clip that holds the brake oil line to the inner fender wall, that way you can slide the metal part threw and gain the extra few inches you need.

Good luck and do a search, there is plenty on this subject.

I just removed the soft brake lines and replaced them. I got stuck on getting one of the original Boge shocks out of the strut. There's an o-ring that can bind as you try and pull the insert out of the strut housing. If that happens, try pulling it out with some small needlenose pliers.

I just did my original Boge to Koni sports last night. Jack up front end (tires off ground) take off wheels. Bend down locking tab on shock top bolt and take off nut(I used impact for removal because socket just kept turning shock). From under wheel well, pull down on top tube cover, lean outward and slide top cover off. Next remove spanner nut that holds insert in strut. Original is 4 notches, Koni is spanner(2 holes for spanner wrench). Slide old strut out, slide new strut in, reinstall new spanner nut, install rubber bumpers(new) install original top cover(shake out rust,clean wax shine) slide up into hole, put on new large washer, bend/lock washer and nut. Torque to 59 ft/lb, bend up locking tab and move to the other side...repeat.

My initial setting if half between firm and soft. Anyone have any hints as to a better initial setting. Car had the original Boges(yes there was oil everywhere when I pulled the old inserts out.) and were shot. Strange how a shock fails after just 26 years and 107K miles...just don't build things like they did in years past.

Tonight....Turbo tie rods.

Hey bkcbuilder,

I have just ordered the turbo tie rods too, please let me know how it went and if you encountered any specific problems !

Cheers,

The Boge to Koni S Tutorial is much appreciated.
My koni sports(front and rear NIB) are on the way from a Pelican in Calif.
Also interested in feedback on thye original setting feedback
A friend has a lift, but seems this project may be just as easy on the floor.

Tape your fender lip with duct tape and have towel/rag handy to place between the shock and the fender lip while you are wrestling to get the top of the shock past the fender.

Helped when we were doing a Boge/Bilstein HD change.

do a search on member 'livi'..he recently slayed this dragon..his thread covered just about everything that there is to say on changing the fronts out..
ryan

Hey Bigchillcar !

Funny how the words in that post of yours made me feel more proud than the latest 2 year old with meningitis I took car of. SmileWavy

The hardest part is removing the bumpers to mount the rotisserie.
Once the car is up you can easily remove the a arms and engine, so theres plenty of clearance for the rear shocks.
I also recommend you remove the hood and windshield so you don't knick it removing the upper shock bolt. If you cant swing the front strut lower portion, I would remove the headlights and fenders as well.

All together it should take less than an hour.

Good idea except I'd use blue painter's tape instead of duct tape. Real duct tape will leave a mess of glue on your paint.

Yeah, but the tower is impossible!!
 

I appreciate the responses, but those front shock tower retaining nuts are IMPOSSIBLE to remove. Whats the secret for the home mechanic without an impact wrench? Its like that curved metal cup under the nut has little to do with it. Help...........The open end wrench and/or socket alone does nothing. I even sprayed on PB Blaster! Yeah right that really helped!!

Thanks
Bob

Sunroof-

In the same situation as you I used a nutbuster ( $10 at Autozone).

In case you haven't used one, it goes over the nut and you tighten a scrw which drives a hardened wedge into the side of the nut until it splits and falls off.

Of course you should have a new nut with the new shocks.

If I ever do this again ( unlikely), I understand that an electric impact wrench will get it done.

good luck

You have to bend the retaining washer down flat.

I think the secret is buying an impact wrench. :) Even a good electric impact wrench is worth buying if you don't have a compressor.

Way to go Markus !!!


I KNEW you'd do it :D


-Chris

Whats the best way to bend the curved metal plate down? Smash it with a hammer? Suggestions? I like the nut splitter idea.

Thanks
Bob

Try a pipe wrench to hold the washer while you use a proper wrench (and some leverage) to turn the nut. A whack or two with a hammer may get to to move also.

If it will not budge, tighten it just a tad and then loosen it.

Livi/Markus

Turbo tie rods are a snap too. Not as easy as the struts inserts but close.

Little facts.... my original cottepins in the tie rod castle bolts are very soft, so I just snipped what was sticking out and twisted the rest off with the socket.

When you get to the rack ends, use a punch and hammer to get the nuts started off. Tough to get channel locks in there, and I don't have the Porsche wrench...chisel works good.

Make sure you have a pickle fork to part the rod end from the steering knuckle. That baby was IN THERE!

When you measure your old units to adjust the new ones to the same length....see how deep the tie rod end is in there...I question the use of the spacer washers on the rack end. Mine seem to have almost no adjustment left, and leaving out that washer would get me another 1/4" a side. When I get the alignment done I may have to remove them, or cut off some of the threaded part that goes into the tie rod end. Either way I'll be disconnecting the rod ends again.

Roll the spring steel rubber boot clamps back onto the rack, then when you slide the new boots on, you can easily roll the spring clamps back onto the boots. Use some dishsoap on the boot ends to ease installation. Not near as bad as 101 tips suggests.

I got mine close enough that it tracks straight(even at 100MPH) but the wheel is crooked, and having just installed new tires I need to get to the alignment rack quick!

Enjoy.... Brian

Sunroof Bob...buy an impact, even if it's an electric...Sears has a decent one for less than $100. Air is better, but not always necessary.