splitting the case problems...
 

I have a couple of questions for the experienced. One, why won't my 3.0L case split after hitting it in the places specified by the Waynes rebuild book?

Two, I have 993 Dilivar studs on the top and bottom, but I don't think I have a turbo engine, there aren't any turbos on the engine, so did they build some SC engines with top and bottom Dilavar head studs?

Oh and Three, Can I split the case and then have the head studs remved professionally after it's split?

thanks everyone...


K.

Not that you would ever do this ;) but people have been known to forget the nut or nuts that are accessed though the chain openings.
-Chris

If you've never done this before - one thing Wayne's book doesn't tell you is that there are two dowel pins on the studs at the very front of the crank, by the flywheel. These help align the case halves. For me, getting these dowel pins to separate was what was holding the two case halves together. You might concentrate your efforts near the front (flywheel) end.

Hope this helps - Rex.

Mine took some definant persuasion. All of the tabs that are there to strike and drive the case apart i used. with the case on a stand I left a couple of nuts barely on so if the case did decide to sperate it wouldnt fall and i alternately struck all of these areas. My thought was that it has been sealed together for 25 years without leaking so I was pretty aggressive. Limited experience but it worked for me.

thanks, but what about two and three?

anyone have any answers?

#2 - the engine has definitely been apart before if it has the fully-threaded dilavar studs installed.

#3 - yes you can replace these if you have the case halves separated. The 993 ones are somewhat more durable than the older ones - you might want to keep them.

As for separating the case halves, simply go at it with a rubber mallet, and don't be shy...

-Wayne

There's on odd sized one through the chain ramp openings - You do have the thru case bolts out too, right... those are right next to the cylinder openings and have acorn nuts on on end.

I just did this on an '82 case. After ALL nuts are out, I used a small bottle jack between the two long studs on the clutch-side to carefully seperate the halves. Keep it close to the case to prevent the long bolts from bending; all you need is a little crack to break the old seal.
Make sure that ALL nuts are removed; one was hiding on me.
If the Dilavar studs look good, keep them.
I replaced the exhaust studs with steel ones.
If you don't plan to keep the Dilavars, double-nut them on top really tight, put a vice-grip on the bottom close to the case.
By using both vice-grip, and a wrench on the double-nuts together, I had no problem getting the studs out. A little heat from a propane torch on the case around the stud will help.
Clean out the threads with the right size/pitch 12mm bottom tap. Blow the holes out with air and clean the holes with Alcohol. Blow them dry. Clean the new studs, use thread locker and set the new studs to 135mm.
With common sense, and Wayne's book, you can do it.